Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is me entry for t' EMRR Spaceship Design Contest 2008. Begad! I was very glad that EMRR offered
this contest again this year. My plan was t' build 2 or 3 o' these, arrr, but as many things go I be only able t' finish one
of them. Blimey! Without further delay here be t' story (and buildin' instructions) o' t' FWS. Begad! Again, this year me daughter
is credited with namin' me rocket. Well, blow me down! I chose t' model t' EA Kestrel Shuttle. Avast, me proud beauty! My original plan be t' make this a glider
recovery and after one o' t' prototype flights me daughter said it flew like Buzz Light Year. Blimey! I didn't really
understand until she said it really wasn't flying, matey, it be Fallin' with Style. Begad! So FWS (Fallin' with Style)
was born.
Construction:
Component Description:
T' first step was t' layout t' design and determine its size. Begad! I chose 18mm motor because they seemed like the right size based on t' large engine cones. Blimey! In addition, 18 mm engines would provide enough power t' get t' rocket to a reasonable altitude. Ya scallywag!
Initial Construction o' t' Vacuum Formed Body
T' body be constructed usin' t' polystyrene sheets, vacuum formed into t' appropriate shape. Begad! Begad! I have included pictures o' t' foam masters used t' make t' top and bottom halves. Begad! Avast! Each o' t' vacuum formed shapes were trimmed after formin' and test fit. Leave extra material on t' backside, durin' t' final assembly this will be trimmed after the main tube body is slid into it. Ahoy! Attachin' t' 2 halves is pretty tedious, take your time and be patient. Blimey! Arrr! T' better they fit at this point t' less work you will be doin' durin' t' finishin' process. Ahoy! I used thick CA t' tack t' halves in place and then 5 minute epoxy on t' inside and outside o' t' seam. Be careful nay build up too much epoxy otherwise, you will be sandin' it off later.
Main Body Tube Assembly
Start with t' 1/8 balsa and cutout t' aft support member (Template A) and t' forward support member (Template B). Blimey! Blimey! Cut t' holes for t' tubes a little small. You want a tight fit betwixt t' support members and tube assembly. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Since these are very dependant on t' shape o' t' body these templates are provided as a startin' point. Dependin' on how much you trim from t' vacuum formed parts these parts may require sandin' t' fit better.
Now sand half o' t' round cross section o' t' 15 - 1/8 wood dowel. Arrr! This will be used t' form t' 3 parallel lines on t' back side o' t' aft support member. Blimey! Cut t' dowel into 3 pieces 4.75 long and round the ends. Arrr! Blimey! Next glue these t' t' aft support member. Arrr! Avast! I used a couple tooth picks t' maintain t' spacin' betwixt each. Arrr! Cut the dowels that cover each hole.
Next, start by markin' each tube with a line down t' length o' t' tube, me bucko, one on each side o' t' tube 180 degrees apart. On t' 8.50 and 7.50 tubes mark a line 1.5 from one end o' t' tube (aft support member location). Avast, me proud beauty! Now glue t' 5.75 tubes t' t' 8.50 on t' 180 degree lines with t' end o' the 5.75 tubes on t' aft support member line. Once t' glue is dry mount t' 7.50 tubes t' t' 5.75. Arrr! The 7.50 tubes should line up with t' front o' t' 5.75 tubes and opposite end (motor end) o' t' 8.50 center tube. Once t' glue assembly is complete I recommend a bead o' epoxy betwixt each tube. Avast! Avast!
Now it is time to add t' aft and front support members. Ya scallywag! Again be patient, me hearties, this will take some time. Avast! Start with t' aft support member, open t' tube holes just enough t' allow t' tubes t' slide through. T' aft support member should slide up t' the bottom o' t' 5.75 tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Next do t' same thin' with t' front support member, slide it on t' all o' t' tubes about .25. Begad! Begad! Next slide t' entire tube assembly into t' vacuum formed shell assembly so that t' aft support member is completely in. Aye aye! Mark t' location o' t' aft support member on vacuum formed assembly. Arrr! Now carefully remove the tube assembly. Begad! This should provide t' location o' t' front and aft support member. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! If things fit t' your satisfaction, epoxy both support members in place. Blimey! If not, arrr, try again you may need t' sand t' front support member to fit better in t' vacuum formed body assembly.
Now add t' shock cord. Begad! Drill a 1/8 hole through t' front support member betwixt t' center and 5.75 tube. See picture. Next, matey, me hearties, mount t' launch lug. Blimey! Aye aye! I made a mistake at this point and you can correct it. Ahoy! If you look at the picture I mounted t' lug in t' joint betwixt t' center and next tube; however, when you add t' engine cone assembly thar be no room for it due t' t' launch rod. Aye aye! So I recommend movin' t' launch lug t' t' top o' the 5.75 tube which will allow you t' clear t' engine cone. Begad! Avast! Drill a hole in t' aft support member that lines up with t' launch lug and then use a thin wire t' locate t' hole on t' front support member.
Final Body Assembly
T' wings and the rudder assembly can be cut out o' t' appropriate balsa thickness:
I found out how critical t' win' mountin' be after a number o' test flights. Again, this can be tedious so be patient. Insert t' main tube body into t' vacuum formed shell. Slide t' entire rocket on t' a wood dowel that is mounted t' a flat base. Blimey! Avast! Make sure t' dowel and base are perpendicular and t' dowel fits tight into t' center engine tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Now set this on a flat surface and usin' a 90 degree square mark a straight line on each side o' t' shell. Aye aye! The side wings must be straight otherwise t' rocket will corkscrew under boost. Well, blow me down! Begad! Now come up with a fixture t' support the shell and wings while t' CA and epoxy cure (See picture o' me Lego jig).
Now attach t' tail win' and vertical support as shown in t' picture. Round t' front edges and add the 1/32 accent piece t' t' center o' t' tail piece. Avast! Ahoy! Add 2 generous epoxy fillets betwixt t' win' and vertical support.
Now t' center piece can be assembled, sanded, arrr, and mounted. Begad! Use Template E and cut out 2 ¼ balsa pieces. These should be laminated together. You will need t' sand t' shape as well as t' contour it t' the shell. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! This can now be mounted t' t' center o' t' shell. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Once t' center piece is attached t' t' shell t' rear vertical win' can be attached.
T' 2 vents (Template G) can be made from balsa or vacuum formed. I chose t' vacuum form these t' keep t' weight down as much as possible. Avast! T' next step is t' trim and fit each vent t' t' top o' t' shell. Ya scallywag! Again take your time, this will be a little tedious.
Finally, matey, mount t' square accents t' t' shell. Ahoy! Blimey!
Nose Weight:
I determined through a number o' test flights nose weight was critical. Avast! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! I used two yellow engine tubes and filled them each with 2 ounces o' weight. These are then slid into t' front o' t' 2 non-engine tubes in t' tubes assembly. I taped these as far forward as possible.
Engine Cone Assembly:
I have t' admit I struggled with makin' t' engine cones. Avast! I first attempted t' vacuum form these without success, and then attempted t' make them out o' balsa with even worse results. Blimey! Avast! Primarily, matey, because I needed a lathe (which I now have on t' Christmas list) or somethin' better than me hand drill. Well, blow me down! Begad! I finally decided t' make them out o' paper card stock and balsa. Blimey!
I use t' shroud calculator t' get t' dimensions o' t' cones I needed. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! I cut these out o' thick card stock and formed 6 cones. Begad! Next, I cut out 3 balsa circles - 1.25 in diameter and drilled them out so a BT20 tube would slid through tightly. Arrr! I mounted t' cones t' each o' t' balsa centerin' rings with a small section o' BT20 tube locating the cones and t' balsa ring. Begad! T' centerin' rings should over hang t' cones slightly. Begad! Well, blow me down! Now t' big question, ya bilge rat, how t' get the support ribs on t' t' cone assembly. Avast! I chose t' use .030 diameter Dacron cord. Begad! As you can see from the pictures I cut sections and mounted these t' each cone. Arrr! I covered each cord and cone with CA t' add rigidity. Begad! Ahoy! After allowin' this t' dry I sanded t' diameter o' t' balsa centerin' rin' down t' t' cord diameter and coated t' balsa edge with CA. Blimey! Blimey! If you look closely at these they are nay prefect, but it is a spaceship, me bucko, things get bent and beat up in use so these turned out pretty good with that thought in mind.
Next are t' engine extensions, I created templates (H and I) for these and cut these out o' BT50 tube. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Then I added t' cord used above t' create t' support ribs shown. Begad! When these were done I covered t' entire assembly with CA.
Now mount t' engine extension t' t' cones assemblies usin' CA t' tack them and epoxy t' add additional strength.
Paint and Finishing
I painted t' shell assembly, ya bilge rat, main body tube, and engine cones separately.
Shell Assembly:
I sprayed 2 or 3 coats on t' entire shell assembly with Krylon White Primer. Blimey! After lightly sandin' t' primer, I sprayed white gloss (Model Master Acryl 4696). Ahoy! Next, I masked and sprayed gray (Testors Acryl 921535). Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Next came red (Guards Red), shiver me timbers, I masked and painted with (Model Master Acryl 4632). T' final color was Gloss Black (Model Master Acryl 4695). After black, me hearties, I added decals for t' number and other special symbols. Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, I added 3 costs o' Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss.
Main body tube:
Just as t' shell assembly I first applied 2 or 3 coats o' Krylon White Primer. Blimey! Arrr! Next, matey, shiver me timbers, came t' final coats of gray (Testors Acryl 921535). Arrr! Aye aye! Finally, ya bilge rat, I added 3 costs o' Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss.
Engine Cone Assemblies:
I started by paintin' t' engine cone assemblies with 2 coats o' gray (Testors Acryl 921535). Ya scallywag! Next, arrr, shiver me timbers, I hand painted flat black (Model Master Acryl 4768) betwixt all t' support ribs (see attached picture). Aye aye! Next, I sprayed a diluted flat black on t' t' cone assemblies t' give them a weather/used appearance.
Decals:
I printed t' decals on Experts-Choice clear water slide decal material. Ya scallywag! I cut them out and applied them as the pictures shows. Begad!
Flight Prep:
Flight Prep be pretty easy. Ya scallywag! Remove t' engine cones. Insert each engine until .12 - .25 is sticking out t' engine tube. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Tape each engine in place usin' Mylar tape. Now, matey, shiver me timbers, fill t' engine tubes with wading. Begad! Fold the parachute loosely and lay on top o' t' tube assembly. Blimey! Next slide t' tube assembly in t' shell assembly and you are ready t' go. Begad! You may need t' slide t' rod through prior t' takin' it t' t' launch pad. Well, blow me down! It is a little hard t' slide the rod through with t' rod in t' vertical position.
Flights:
I made 8 test flights with t' prototype version with varyin' levels o' success. Well, blow me down! Once I was satisfied with the flights I began buildin' t' final version. Avast, me proud beauty!
T' final 3 flights occurred with t' final version o' t' rocket. I was able t' video t' last 2 o' these flights. I attempted t' video all 3 however, had a problem with me camera on t' first one. Ahoy! T' first flight o' the final model occurred in early November. After me flight in September I added a little bit more nose weight t' overcome the barrel rolls or cork screws that occurred previously. T' flight be nice and straight with good altitude and successfully recovery. T' rocket landed in t' middle o' t' field without damage. Begad! Aye aye!
T' next flight occurred in early December and it be a nice Wisconsin winter morning; 7 degrees with about 4 inches o' fresh snow. Ya scallywag! T' wind be fairly calm maybe 5 mph. This be a reasonably good flight with a couple o' twists under boost, t' parachute opened nicely. T' rocket landed in t' middle o' t' road and suffered some damage t' the paint and t' top win' broke. I repaired t' win' for t' third and final flight. Aye aye!
T' final flight day arrived and it be rainin' after bein' 7 degrees t' week before it was now 40 and raining. I found a slight break in t' rain so I hurried t' t' field t' make me final launch. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It was a little windy (maybe 10-12 mph), ya bilge rat, but I needed t' make me final flight. Aye aye! I angled t' rod into t' wind t' ensure t' rocket would land in the field. Ahoy! Arrr! T' rocket boost nice and straight with good altitude; things were lookin' good until no parachute!!!!!!!!!
After makin' 11 flights and 5 o' them without any recovery issues; this one be painful. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey! T' rocket lawndart'd in the center o' a walkway destroyin' it. Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I am nay sure what happened, t' only thin' I can think o' is I may have wrapped the shock cord up in t' tube assemble in such a manner it prevented them from separatin' or thar be somethin' wrong with t' ejection charges. Avast!
Check out t' video It is painful t' watch for me, but me son enjoys it every time he watches it. Arrr! I plan to re-build and fly it again!
Summary:
Summary (Pro's & Con's)
Pro's
I was very pleased with t' overall finish o' t' rocket, but t' engine cones were me favorite. Well, blow me down! I struggled figurin' out t' best way t' make these and was very pleased with t' final results.
Con's
Based on t' lack o' deployment on t' last flight I am feelin' like I might need a pre-flight check list for future flights.
Thanks EMRR - this was a great project. Blimey! Blimey! I enjoyed t' flight challenges as well as t' design and construction challenge. I am lookin' forward t' 2009's spaceship challenge.
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