Manufacturer: | LOC/Precision ![]() |
Modifications:
I had t' buy a scroll saw just t' do t' centerin' rings. Blimey! I started with 54mm t' 7.6" rings and butchered them from there. I also had t' buy a jig saw and abrasive saber-saw blades that were designed t' cut tile. This was used t' cut t' massive notched G10 fins. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Don't try t' learn t' fiberglass on tiny kits, shiver me timbers, nor one this big. Arrr! Go medium like an EZI or similar kit. Begad! I did it and it came out perfectly, arrr, matey, but I think that I was just lucky. Use premium epoxy as t' life o' t' rocket is at stake!
Construction:
Base airframe is unchanged from t' stock LOC Bruiser. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I decided t' loose t' ridiculously small fins with massive ~14" X ~20" 50's style curved fins out o' G-10. Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! T' motor/fin assembly was built and stressed outside o' t' airframe and then secured into t' pre-slotted airframe. Ahoy! Aye aye! Blimey! I also cut t' airframe t' just accommodate t' full 98mm motor mount. Begad! Arrr! Blimey! This allowed for positive anti-zipper. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I reinforced t' airframe with 2 extra coupler tubes t' give me a backin' for two external electronics access doors. T' one in t' booster will house timer for air-startin' 6 outboard 29mm motors. Avast! T' payload access door allows for access t' custom altimeter bay. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I also used a 1.125" ID plastic gas pipe for t' launch lug. Ahoy! Avast! Blimey! I also installed drywall butterfly anchors for 3 launch lugs for Black-Sky rails.
T' rocket kit was well packaged and complete. Begad! T' paper tubes were good quality and would probably hold up t' J power without modifications. Begad! (Not Me). Avast, me proud beauty! Well, arrr, blow me down! There were minimal instructions as expected with an advanced kit. There be a fin alignment page and construction detail sheet.
I made a big mistake while finishin' this rocket! Screwed up a PERFECT fiberglass job, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and here is how I did it: 1) Filled t' FiberGlass dimples with bondo (good idea) 2) Found most beautiful wrappin' paper that shimmered (good idea) 3) Rolled on a thick coat o' epoxy (good idea) 4) Smoothed t' wrappin' paper onto t' tubes (bad idea) T' next mornin' when I got up t' go into t' garage and view t' most awesome holographic finish! I sat and held back t' tears! T' damn paper had buckled and partially separated from t' backing. Avast, me proud beauty! Obviously t' holographic material had become separated from t' white paper backin' and then stretched slightly. Ahoy! Looked like underwear with terribly worn out elastic. Begad! My heart be hurtin' and only 9 days from launch! I ran out and purchased an orbital sander and went through 30 full sheets o' coarse (expensive too) sand paper. Avast! Five days later I had what could be called an Earl Schribe base for a paint job. Avast! Blimey! I could nay get all o' t' epoxy ridges and valleys off. Aye aye! I just painted it t' best that I could. Well, blow me down! Begad! I think that it came out pretty good, considerin' what I went through!
Flight:
Recommended motors with t' kit were big "I" t' big "J". But that be THEIR kit, and this was MINE! A 54mm K-550 was t' only choice in me head. Begad! Sim'ed out at 2000'. Plenty o' room for our 5000' waiver. Ya scallywag! Begad! When I built t' fin/motor unit, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I planned ahead (this time) and put in 3 each 1/4-20 "T" nuts and epoxied them well on t' inside for positive motor retention ability. T' adapter (54 t' 98) that I built be short o' t' motor casing. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! This allowed me t' tape t' adapter t' t' motor casin' where t' casin' protruded about 6" above t' adapter motor mount tubing. Begad! Begad! Then 3 each 1/4-20 bolts and a couple o' fender washers took care o' t' rest.
I custom built t' two shock cords. Ahoy! Both 1"x50' fluorescent nylon webbing. I sewed in a "Y" attachment point and used steel lockin' d-rings for attachment. Well, blow me down! I could smartly take t' whole thin' apart in a matter o' seconds and put it back together in t' same. I know, me bucko, me hearties, because I had t' double-check t' locks.
T' launch was absolutely perfect. Nay too slow and nay too fast. Begad! Lots-o-noise and wonderful smoke shroom! Did nay spin or even rotate, straight up. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! At just below apogee, me bucko, t' RRC2 controller popped me homemade ejection charge and t' 6' drogue opened perfectly! At 500' t' main charge popped and ejected t' 10' main. Begad! Begad! It was picture perfect; a HUGE chute that took about 100' and 5 seconds for t' main t' fill completely, but it felt like 20 minutes! She landed upright and almost stayed that way. Well, blow me down! I could have launched again in t' time t' reload. Begad! Well, blow me down! Nay a scratch!
Summary:
T' small fins o' t' original kit are just too small. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I think that it takes away from t' overall awesomeness o' this kit. Avast, me proud beauty! This is a most perfect modification kit and/or easy level II. Aye aye! Blimey! I have and will recommend t' LOC Bruiser t' one and all!
This kit really taught me about buildin' rockets from scratch. Avast! Begad! I know that doesn't make any sense, ya bilge rat, but think about it. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I spent TONS o' time examinin' and redesignin' somethin' that I KNEW was already well tested. Well, blow me down! I could concentrate on me talents and forget about t' other things. Blimey! Then I had t' take into account t' original kit design t' learn how me mods had effected it. Good method. Avast! I will mod a lot more (and REAL soon).
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