Brief:
This 1/17.5 scale kit celebrates NASA's 1961 Mercury Redstone 3 manned mission that placed Alan Shepard and his Freedom 7 capsule into space aboard a modified Redstone booster (MR7).

While t' kit is a single stage, single motor and single parachute model (just under 3.3 lbs or 52.8 oz) design usin' a molded polyurethane resin capsule with cardboard and plywood booster construction materials, it is recommended for t' experienced modeler. Well, blow me down! It comes with enough basic detail to really "tune" t' kit into an historical, flyin' scale replica if you are inclined t' do t' research and if you want t' apply t' skill and patience required t' craft t' kit (see John Purley's web page for reference). Ahoy! If you prefer t' just get on with it, ya bilge rat, t' instructions more than suffice t' describe how t' finish t' kit in a "good enough t' scale" fashion that really catches t' eye as well as t' imagination.

Construction:
T' kit comes with a high quality cardboard main tube, me bucko, laser-cut basswood plywood fins, which come in eight halves that you epoxy and sandwich together to make your 4 scale through t' wall fins, dowels for t' escape tower, 18" x 29mm MMT, 3 x 1/8" plywood centerin' rings, arrr, big vinyl decals (roll patterns t' 'MR7's on t' booster and red letterin' for 'United States', launch lugs, me bucko, arrr, me hearties, a 50" nylon parachute, me hearties, 6 page instruction manual, matey, a flat and beefy elastic shock cord, arrr, and steel aircraft cable t' attach t' shock cord to the rocket.

The resin cast capsule measures approximately 7 inches in height (17" with escape tower) and features surface details that include a round periscope window, trapezoid window, hatch, vertical panels, and umbilical panel. Well, blow me down! Blimey! A piece of aramid strin' is used t' attach t' capsule t' t' shock cord. Begad! T' aramid strin' is passed through a hole in t' side o' t' capsule. Begad! T' end that is passed through is then attached t' an screw eye imbedded into t' inside nose of t' capsule. Begad! This setup lets t' capsule come down on its side, protecting the escape tower somewhat if you choose t' fly it with t' escape tower on. Arrr! Ya scallywag! The escape tower may be removed for flight.

T' instructions have plenty o' diagrams and are easy t' follow and clear. There is only one small mistake in t' build logic, which you will pick up on if you read t' instructions first before building. Aye aye! T' instructions come with good templates t' build t' escape tower and t' line up t' fins with.

While t' number o' parts is small and t' rocket big, arrr, shiver me timbers, don't let this fool you into thinkin' you'll be able t' snap it together smartly with some 5-minute epoxy! Forget it as I found it pays t' be a bit patient with this build as there are some components that require a bit o' craft t' get right.

First, matey, gettin' t' right angle on t' leadin' edge o' these compound designed fins is a bit challenging. I don't recommend usin' a rasp as it will damage t' wood, me hearties, matey, rather 150 grit sandpaper wrapped around a long, square dowel works great. Aye aye! But be careful nay t' grind t' square rudders while you are tryin' t' angle t' fin edge. If you don't plan on buildin' t' rocket in the near term, matey, I also suggest you at least epoxy and sandwich t' fins together so they don't warp in t' box. Begad!

Second, matey, me hearties, me bucko, since you want t' paint t' stick t' t' capsule, arrr, arrr, wipe it with odorless varsol, wash it with soapy water, shiver me timbers, and then scrub it with an abrasive cloth. Then wash it again. Avast! Ahoy! When done cleanin' this piece, me bucko, me bucko, arrr, I recommend spraying it first with a paint designed t' bond t' plastic such as Krylon Fusion. Once this is dry, arrr, me bucko, you can prime and final coat it. Since t' kit has no decals for the capsule (United States and Freedom 7), arrr, you might want t' make some. I used my PC and printer t' fashion some up. Begad! Arrr! After puttin' t' final coat o' gloss black t' t' capsule, I applied them with white glue. Once applied t' the capsule, I then painted t' scheme accordin' t' t' instructions and finally satin clear-coated t' whole thing.

Third, I used an Aerotech 29mm steel motor clip (looks like a giant Estes-style motor clip) for motor retention. They are cheap and practical and build just like t' little ones from Estes. Begad! Begad! If you want, you can use a Aerocon 29mm motor retainer too. Begad! Neubauer recommends usin' a gear-clamp and masking tape retention system, ya bilge rat, which I am sure works, shiver me timbers, me hearties, matey, but if you are goin' t' spend US$150.00 plus shippin' on t' kit anyway, what's another US$10.00 for a couple of Aerotech motor retention clips? Better yet, why nay include them with the kit? Ditto for rail guides. Ya scallywag!

Fourth, arrr, you need t' make up your mind early if you want t' fly t' rocket with t' escape tower on or off. Aye aye! If on, you can certainly swap out t' wooden dowels for graphite rods and piano wire cross tubes or somethin' similar. Otherwise, make sure you attach t' escape tower securely yet loosely enough to allow it t' pop off if it needs to. Arrr! Begad! Use a piece o' good strin' t' anchor it to the capsule in case it does pop off. Begad! If you decide t' build t' escape tower usin' CA instead o' epoxy, matey, you will make it brittle and it will come apart if enough energy is pushed into it. Avast! Brass pieces fitted and soldered could be a good way t' go too but watch t' weight if you are stickin' t' a 29mm motor. Blimey!

Fifth, shiver me timbers, inside t' rocket right where t' steel cable recovery harness piece goes around t' cardboard MMT is where you need t' place a cardboard (or even light fiberglass) sleeve. Ahoy! Even thought t' recovery harness uses elastic cord, havin' a little bit o' extra wall thickness and durability here will help make the rocket recovery system more robust. This is important especially if you spend additional time scalin' and detailin' t' model because its nearly impossible t' do it after t' model is built. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey!

T' rocket you will have at t' end o' your build will be heavy and overstable. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Rest assured, arrr, t' flight will be loud and relatively slow! Blimey! I came really close t' modifyin' this kit by puttin' a 38mm MMT in it. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! That would be a good alternative if you want t' nay have t' worry too much about thrust-to-weight ratios and velocity off t' pad. Blimey! Blimey! As it stands, me bucko, t' thrust to weight with t' AT G80-4T SU motor is 5:1 and plenty good enough for a stable flight.

I liked buildin' this kit! T' parts fit together well and are excellent quality materials. Ya scallywag! There is enough detail t' provide a solid foundation on which t' scale t' kit even more if you choose. Begad! If you like historic scale replicas, shiver me timbers, arrr, this is a great kit t' buy, ya bilge rat, build, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and fly. Ahoy! It will obviously accept bein' modified as well for things like a 38mm motor, shiver me timbers, dual deployment, and dual parachutes--one each for t' capsule and booster. Aye aye!

Finishing:
I found t' decals t' be very easy t' apply. Arrr! Ahoy! While t' complex roll pattern near t' capsule is a big decal it will come out nicely if you take a moment to line it up at first and apply it carefully. I didn't use t' decals for the fins and lower booster, preferrin' instead t' mask and spray paint them. Blimey! Well, blow me down! I used aluminum (metal) foil duct joint tape (not t' standard duct tape!) t' cover the bottom o' t' fins and motor area. Well, blow me down! Looks good, me hearties, wipes clean, and won't blister, me hearties, burn, or melt from heat like paint or mylar.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
This rocket is fun t' fly! It does not come o' t' pad in t' blink of an eye leavin' you searchin' t' sky for chute deployment. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Rather, shiver me timbers, it comes off rather majestically but at a fair clip for all t' admire. I figure a flight apogee at 180m/375' on t' G80-4T. Half o' t' flight up seems like a coast. Begad! I used a Nomex® blanket t' protect t' parachute. You'll want t' make sure t' capsule fits very well into t' booster with no gaps. If not, matey, you'll get gases escaping before t' capsule can come off fully and then, well, me bucko, you've got a 52oz lawn dart t' cry over. I use a rail t' launch me rocket. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! This rocket flew straight, went over a little bit (maybe up t' 5 degrees) and then ejected t' capsule just after apogee when it came over half way onto its nose. Avast! My escape tower came a bit loose but stayed with t' capsule, anchored as it was with a piece of black heavy-gauge polyester thread. Everythin' remained intact. While it doesn't fly very high, it is big and t' fact that it travels so (relatively) slowly and that t' G80 is pretty loud and crackly makes it an excitin' model to fly.

Recovery:
T' elastic shock cord can be extended a bit with nylon strapping, me bucko, but I would suggest tetherin' t' capsule if you are doin' single chute deployment t' the parachute and nay t' elastic--there's too many pieces bouncin' around and too much chance they'll come together.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
PROs for this rocket are:

• Excellent materials, me hearties, excellent fit, ya bilge rat, excellent decals, matey, excellent fin scale and geometry, good instructions.

CONs for this rocket kit are:

• MMT is a bit light given that t' steel cable passes around it. Instructions call for reinforcement o' t' appropriate area, but I suggest another sleeve o' cardboard at this area as well as t' recommended epoxy coating.
• No motor retention clip.
• No rail guides.
• No capsule decals!
• No stainless steel barrel swivel.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5