(Contributed
- by Kevin Mclaughlin - 12/20/02)
Brief
Description:
This rocket came t' bein' after decidin' nay t' buy t' Aerotech G Force kit.
After studyin' t' plans for t' G Force, me hearties, I decided that I could make a scratch
build that met me basic criteria for likin' G Force. I wanted a tall rocket
with a 4" airframe that would perform well on G64 and higher 29mm RMS
hardware. Aye aye! Since I got back into model rocketry with me son who is now eight, me hearties, I
strove t' make rockets that where at least as tall, if nay taller than his
height. This rocket is 64" tall and weighs in at 44 ounces with altimeter,
but without motor and 'chute. "Big Red" seemed t' be an appropriate
name after completin' t' paint job. Component Description: T' construction of
this rocket follows closely t' plans for t' G Force.
- 30 x 3.9" body tube
- 10" section o' 3.9" body tube for t' altimeter bay
- plywood centerin' rings and a bulkhead
- 29 mm motor mount tube
- Public Missile 3.9" nose cone
- 1/8" PVC fin stock
This was me first large airframe
rocket, so I wanted t' try and imitate t' Aerotech wad-less recovery design.
Through a stroke o' luck, I came across t' Aerotech baffle shock chord
attachment used in t' G Force and used that on top o' t' 29 mm motor mount
with a three-ply centerin' ring. Begad! Ya scallywag! Similar t' t' G Force, arrr, I also created a
payload bay usin' a 10" section o' 3.9" body tube. T' payload bay
was adapted t' hold me home-made RCC2 Cannonball Works altimeter.
Construction/Finishin' Techniques:
Usin' t' G Force plans as a guide, shiver me timbers, I somewhat followed t' fin tube/motor
mount construction. Ya scallywag! T' main exception bein' t' use o' mounted #8 brass screws
with a retainer plate for
motor retention. This provides
the flexibility t' handle various 29 mm motors.
Instead o' usin' t' sort o' fin lockin' mechanism that comes with t' G Force
kit, shiver me timbers, I used 1/8" PVC plastic sheet cut t' templates created from t' VCP
fin tool. Avast, me proud beauty! These were cut with fin tabs for through-the-wall mountin' between
the centerin' rings and motor tube.
I also added a 2.5" section o' 3.9" tube coupler at t' tail pipe to
reinforce t' body tube for landings. Begad! Flight/Recovery:
First flight was on a G64-4W with a 45" 'chute. Flight was very straight
with chute recovery at apogee. Begad! Avast! Landin' was about 100 yards down wind with an
estimated altitude o' about 900'. Ahoy! I actually forgot t' arm t' altimeter on the
first flight. Arrr! T' 45" 'chute appears t' be perfect for t' weight o' this
rocket. Ahoy! Wad-less recovery worked perfectly with no heat damage t' recovery
components detected. Shock chord is a 12' length o' 9/16" tubular nylon
with quick links for body tube and nose cone attachment. Avast! Ya scallywag! Summary:
This rocket is a real crowd pleaser. It flies straight and has a nice take off.
I have flown it with and without t' altimeter bay. Due t' t' size o' the
rocket, it tends t' get banged up if it lands on any sort o' hard surface like
the street. Ya scallywag! Begad! Since me finish paint is very decorative with t' decal, matey, I tend to
be very selective about launch sites and wind conditions.
I used too small o' a 'chute at one launch
due t' windy conditions, arrr, me bucko, and a piece o' t' fin was broken off. Blimey! I used a
Dremmel tool t' cut off t' PVC fin at t' body tube joint, then used a router
bit t' remove t' PVC material down t' t' motor mount through t' body tube
fin slit. Well, blow me down! This way, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I was able t' entirely remove t' old fin down t' t' motor
mount without cuttin' t' body tube. Begad! I cut a new fin out o' PVC and epoxied
into place through t' body tube fin slit and t' t' motor mount tube. Avast! Well, blow me down! After
applyin' a filet o' epoxy around t' fin joint, I masked and sprayed t' fin
can with black enamel. Well, blow me down! T' result is as good as new, me bucko, me hearties, me hearties, with no evidence o' the
fin replacement. Ya scallywag! This is one o' t' advantages o' usin' PVC fin material. Arrr! It is
very easy t' work with and replace. Aye aye! Since t' PVC is soft, me hearties, it is easy t' cut
and in t' case o' fin replacement, ya bilge rat, remove through cuttin' and routing.
After applyin' decals, arrr, arrr, I applied a light clear coat finish. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! I have had much
trouble with clear coat either drippin' or wrinkling, arrr, shiver me timbers, so I have been very
stingy in applyin' it t' me projects. Aye aye! I have also started paintin' most o' my
rockets black in t' fin can area t' facilitate quick repair and finish. Begad! Blimey! Black
covers best and doesn't show burns and other wear and tear.
I estimate that t' total cost breakdown looked somethin' like this for Big
Red:
- Nose cone: $15 purchased on eBay plus $5 shipping
- Body tubes, motor tube, centerin' rings, bulkhead and 9/16" nylon
tubing: $22 with shipping
- Paints, matey, epoxy and laminated paper for lightenin' bolts and checkerboard
tube wrap: $15
- Decals: $15 with shippin' purchased from T' Decal Zone
- Scrap 1/8" styrene for fins: $2