Brief:
Conversion t' 18mm flight for Hawk (#552-130; circa 1958) and Glencoe (#05103; circa 1990) 1/48th scale Jupiter C (Redstone/Explorer) plastic models.

Modifications:
If ever a scale model called out for conversion it's t' Hawk and/or Glencoe Jupiter C. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This conversion covers both because Glencoe bought and used the molds from Hawk. T' Hawk version is preferable because a) t' molds have warped and t' Glencoe models are notoriously hard t' put together straight and easily, and b) t' antique factor o' t' Hawk. I've been lucky enough t' locate two hawk models for $10 or less on auction. Well, me bucko, blow me down! I am told they fetch over $100 at plastic modeler's conventions and even t' box is worth t' $10. Arrr! However, the Glencoe is easier t' locate.

Conversion is made easy by t' fact that t' model is so close t' Estes BT-55 diameter that manufactured parts can be used and t' fact that t' hole where t' engine nozzle would go is just a hair over 18mm/BT20 tube size. Plastic cement must be used with all plastic parts and can be used on all paper parts too--it's plenty strong enough. However, plastic glue might be harsh on elastic (although I'm nay sure). Blimey! Begad! You might want t' use wood glue inside the Estes type folded-paper shock cord mount. Aye aye! Mountin' it t' t' tube will still require plastic glue.

Start by buildin' t' major sections o' t' model but do nay connect them: the lower body/fin section (minus t' nozzle) and t' upper body and nose with Explorer attached. Aye aye! Arrr! If you choose t' use an engine hook, me bucko, cut a small notch in the base o' t' fin can so thar's enough room for it t' open t' insert and remove engines (1/4" wide and long is enough).

For t' Glencoe version, me hearties, me bucko, you'll probably have trouble makin' t' two halves of each section fit together and may have similar problems makin' t' ends of the two sections fit well. Ya scallywag! Blimey! All I can say is use plenty o' glue and rubber bands. Aye aye! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! It can be done.

Lookin' down inside t' lower body section, shiver me timbers, you'll note that t' inside base is nay round.

Due t' t' fin can and connectin' points o' t' model, me bucko, me bucko, t' nearly BT-55 circle is squared off with four flat spaces. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' bottom rin' o' t' motor mount will need t' be trimmed t' fit this. Aye aye! Just trim off some, ya bilge rat, test fit t' piece and repeat as necessary until enough is removed. If you remove too much, ya bilge rat, arrr, don't worry too much as t' bottom rin' will be glued t' t' base, arrr, so a tight fit against t' sides is nay strictly necessary. Arrr! Arrr! Be sure t' note t' placement of these flats on your bottom centerin' rin' in comparison with engine hook/notch (if used) so that they line up. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! You also will need t' notch t' bottom rin' for hook movement. Well, matey, blow me down! Be sure t' notice that t' top centerin' rin' will need some, but nay as much, squarin' off. Begad! Test fit both rings and inspect their alignment, markin' t' rings and motor tube if necessary until you are sure o' t' fit of all parts. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rounded portions will nay start with a perfect fit. T' tube is slightly less than BT-55 inside diameter. Blimey! This is easily fixed by simply runnin' t' rings around on their rims while pushin' down, me hearties, slightly mushrooming the edge. Begad! Obviously this is best accomplished before startin' t' squarin' off.

Once you're sure o' t' motor mount fit in t' lower body, construct it as you normally would, matey, me bucko, ya bilge rat, with good fillets on t' motor tube/rin' joints betwixt the rings. Well, blow me down! Blimey! When its glue has set, me bucko, put glue on t' bottom side o' t' bottom centerin' rin' and lower it into place. Ahoy! Arrr! Blimey! If any glue seeps out through the engine hook notch, ya bilge rat, me hearties, remove it immediately. Well, blow me down! Blimey! (A Q-Tip works great for this.)

Construct an Estes folder-paper type shock cord anchor, usin' wood glue to hold it together. Arrr! Ahoy! Glue it an inch or two below t' top inside t' upper body with plastic glue. Once bottom and top sections are complete and t' glue is set, me hearties, they can be glued together.

T' nose will need t' be filled with 2 t' 3 ounces o' putty plus lead shot or other weightin' material. Begad! Embed t' screw eye (with t' shock cord attached to it) within t' weight. Do NOT use plastic cement t' glue this into t' nose. If you trap plastic glue against plastic with somethin' that does nay let the fumes escape, it will continue t' melt t' plastic (that is, ya bilge rat, after all, me bucko, how plastic glue works) and you will end up with pits and craters in t' surface. If you don't have a weightin' substance that adheres t' t' plastic (I used DAP finishin' putty--it's heavy stuff), cut a disk t' glue t' t' inside o' the nose, holdin' t' weight in place.

T' nose does nay sit well on t' body. It sits over a shoulder on the upper body, shiver me timbers, matey, which is only 1/8" high. Ya scallywag! It may fly OK sometimes but may fall off due t' vibration or may separate before ejection. Well, blow me down! On one model, ya bilge rat, I glued very thin plastic strips t' t' outer vertical edge o' t' nose in 4 places. This worked. Arrr! Aye aye! On another, I glued scrap pieces o' t' stems from t' kit parts as vertical spars hangin' from t' inside top o' t' nose, placed t' leave just enough room betwixt them and t' edge o' t' nose for t' shoulder o' t' body. This worked as well even though it was harder t' do but didn't ruin t' scale. On me next one, shiver me timbers, I will try t' latter technique but build it into t' nose weight and bulkhead construction for more solidity.

Construction:
Requires Hawk or Glencoe Jupiter C plastic model plus:

• 18mm engine mount components for Estes BT-55 size model
• Recovery equipment for LPR (shock cord, matey, anchor, arrr, screw eye and chute)
• A fair amount o' nose weight (putty with lead shot is suggested)
• 1/8" launch lug

To finish, shiver me timbers, do a quick balance o' t' finished model completely assembled with a spent engine casin' in t' mount. Blimey! Glue a 2" t' 3" launch lug centered on t' CG. Aye aye! If you wish t' nay ruin t' scale model, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, me hearties, you can easily construct a slip-over rin' with launch lug attached. With it sittin' on top the fins and goin' halfway up t' body, it will nay greatly ruin t' appearance of the model on t' pad if done in all white .

You could also glue t' plastic model's nozzle t' an empty engine casing, so that it can be left in when t' model is on display.

T' instructions are well written and illustrated as well as t' same for both versions. T' changes in buildin' order won't make any difference t' the specifics o' t' instructions.

Finishing:
Finishin' is preplanned. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' color scheme is simple and well described. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! The kits contain water slide decals. Avast! Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I dislike these intensely as I can never make them sit properly. Blimey! Blimey! T' roll stripes are easily replaced with Pactra or similar stripin' tape. Avast! Blimey! T' "UE" markings can be done with hand cut or precut vinyl. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! If you manage t' get t' Hawk version, you'll almost certainly need to replace them, because they'll be 40+ years old, shiver me timbers, cracked, shiver me timbers, and all dried out.

Flight:
First tests were done with a previously half-built Hawk model. Begad! Well, blow me down! First flight was on an A8-3. Begad! Arrr! This was too low. Arrr! T' chute opened only 15 feet from t' ground. Second flight be on a B6-4. This was a very nice flight although it did arch a bit (probably due more t' nose weight than effective engine size). Recovery was good on a 12" mylar "sport chute" from Aerospace Specialty Products. Avast, me proud beauty! An 18" might be better for this engine.

Third flight was with a Glencoe version usin' a C6-5. Ahoy! Flight be good but still arched a bit on t' way up with ejection at apogee and good recovery. The 12" chute be plenty here--the rocket went high enough that an 18" might have let it drift too far. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Still, arrr, it landed with t' Explorer point on the nose strikin' a very small rock causin' it t' break off. Well, blow me down! This can be easily glued. Well, blow me down! Blimey! A better thin' might have been t' paint it correctly and nay glue it in place so it could be removed for flight. It's so small that it wouldn't change the flight characteristics either way.

Summary:
T' main CON be t' fit o' t' pieces o' t' Glencoe version. Avast, me proud beauty! This is not insurmountable, just an annoyance.

T' main PRO is how close t' model is t' standard sized parts. Aye aye! Begad! Any experienced modeler who has ever finished a level 4 kit or at least several level 3 kits, arrr, will have no trouble figurin' out where t' add model rocket construction steps t' t' plastic model construction. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Goin' step by step, arrr, where you have t' modify t' plastic t' fit t' rocket is obvious and nay difficult.