| Published: | 2010-11-13 |
| Manufacturer: | True Modeler's Rocket Kits ![]() |
(01/14/03) I was successful in
gettin' another rocket built and flown in these winter months, me hearties, but it had t' be
unpainted due t' t' cold. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I was glad t' get this rocket as a Descon 10 prize
from my
Push-Me,
Pull-Me (a DC Gemini Kit-Bash). Well, blow me down! Avast! T' True Modeler's Rocket Kit (TMRK),
Merlin. Avast, me proud beauty! It has been a rocket that I have been wantin' for a while due t' its
unique 6-fin and transition design. Avast, me proud beauty! I have build TMRK's
Triple
Zip three rocket kit, but this one will take a bit more skill.
My Image exported from
RockSim 
T' rocket parts were neatly packaged into a narrow plastic bag with placard showin' a picture o' t' rocket, several highlights (Unique 6-Fin Design, me bucko, me hearties, 12" Synthetic 'Chute, Flights t' Over 1,000 FT), Skill Level 3, Length, Diameter and recommended motors. Well, blow me down! All the pieces were packaged very nicely and separated as appropriate.
TMRK explains their objective as taking "... Arrr! you back t' a time when model rockets were more than just a pointed tube and a couple fins. Arrr! You will nay find any ready-to-fly, shiver me timbers, or even almost-ready-to-fly kits here. Well, blow me down! Our kits are for t' hobbyist that enjoys buildin' and displayin' their rockets as much as they do flyin' and recovering them." T' Merlin is in line with their objective and for me is the first kit that I had t' form t' transition from paper for.
T' Merlin stands 16.25" tall (although my rocket measured 15.75") with t' lower section diameter o' 1.637" (BT-60) and t' upper section 0.976" (BT-50). Blimey! T' kit comes with a lower body tube that is 2.5" long, and upper body tube that is 11.25" long (1.75" is in t' lower tube and 1" is under t' paper transition) and a balsa nose cone that is conical (pointed) and 3.75" long. It comes with the centerin' rings, me bucko, thrust rin' and tube for an 18mm motor mount. Aye aye! T' fin stock is 1/16" Bass wood. Avast, me proud beauty! T' recovery system included an eye-screw for the nose cone, 18" o' flat 1/8" elastic, a synthetic 12" parachute (brown), arrr, and two snap swivels. There is a card-stock template for the fin markin' guide, shiver me timbers, fins and two transitions. Begad! Aye aye! A 1/8" launch lug, matey, nose weight, and short BT-60 coupler wraps up t' kit.
CONSTRUCTION:
T' instructions in 5-pages o' step-by-step instruction. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! There are many supportin' illustrations in t' right column to assist t' builder in completin' t' rocket. Blimey! It is rated a skill-level 3 which is reasonable. Arrr! T' instructions recommend white glue, arrr, but suggests yellow carpenters glue for a more durable rocket. Arrr! I used Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue (exterior). Blimey! Begad! T' instructions include a couple o' paragraphs on finishin' and flyin' as well as t' assembly o' t' rocket. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! You will need your standard rocket buildin' tools, me hearties, includin' a sharp hobby cutlass.
Assembly starts with t' motor mount. Begad! T' two 18mm t' 24mm centerin' rings are glued t' t' 18mm tube, me bucko, a thrust rin' in glued in place. Ahoy! Aye aye! There is nay motor retention hook on this rocket. In a later step, the motor mount is installed into t' upper body tube where it extends down into t' lower body tube.
T' next steps get t' two body tubes together. Begad! T' BT-60 coupler is inserted into t' lower body tube leavin' just 1/32" exposed (later t' be used for t' transition . . . Avast! a well, thought-out technique). Avast, me proud beauty! A black fiberboard centerin' rin' is slid up from the bottom t' rest against t' coupler. Well, blow me down! A second black fiberboard centerin' rin' is attached t' t' upper body tube's bottom. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' upper body tube is then inserted from t' bottom up into t' lower body tube t' a prescribed point. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! This prescribed point was in question, because in step 2E is has you mark t' tube at 1.75" and t' illustration agrees. Arrr! In step 3K it says t' apply a bead of glue just above t' 1.75" mark and then says t' insert and slide it up just until t' 2" mark is visible above t' upper centerin' ring. T' 3K illustration matches t' 1.75" indication, matey, shiver me timbers, while t' 3L illustration shows 2". Based on on this, me bucko, I used t' 1.75" mark.
T' fins are then cut from t' 1/16" bass wood usin' a card-stock template and a supplemental guide t' show you fin layout on t' bass wood provided. Begad! Ya scallywag! Very nice wood t' work with. T' fins are cut, stacked and shaped. Begad! T' instructions suggest t' perhaps fins t' fins now with sandin' sealer and sanding.
Next, matey, ya bilge rat, comes card-stock transition. It is cut out in
two pieces. Avast, me proud beauty! T' actual transition (wrapper) and a gluin' tab. Ahoy! T' gluin' tab
prevent an overlap-bump that comes from a single-piece transition template. Arrr! The
transition is assembled, matey, which is relatively easy, and then fitted on t' body
tube. Glue is applied t' t' upper body tube and on that exposed 1/32" of
the BT-60 coupler. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! T' transition is slide down from t' top t' meet t' glue.
T' extended BT-60 coupler is a nice foundation for t' transition. (NOTE:
there are two transition templates on t' card-stock so if you make a mistake,
you're covered.
T' nose cone be a new and unique buildin' experience
for me. Ya scallywag! You need t' install nose weight in t' form o' a piece o' cone-shaped
lead. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! You make a point in t' nose cone per t' instructions with a pencil. Begad! You
then press t' nose cone down on this cone-shaped piece o' lead. Aye aye! Well, matey, blow me down! You remove the
lead piece from t' nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! By holdin' t' lead, you screw t' eye-screw
into and and then remove it again. Begad! Now, you use CA t' glue t' lead into the
nose cone. Well, blow me down! Then, matey, drop CA into t' thread hole you just made and screw in the
eye-screw. Begad! Then you "wick" CA into and around t' nose weight.
T' fins are attached after markin' t' tube with t' fin markin' guide.
Lastly t' elastic shock cord is attached usin' a
3-fold paper method. Begad! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! There were supposed t' be two snap swivels in t' kit, arrr, but
I could only find one (it is entirely possible that I lost it since I had this
kit in and out o' t' bag a number o' times prior t' decidin' t' build it). Aye aye! The
two swivels were t' attach t' shock cord and parachute t' t' nose
cone.
A comment on t' parachute: TMRK indicates that it is an ultra-lightweight, me hearties, rip-resistant synthetic material which is only 2/3rds t' weight o' nylon. Well, blow me down! Blimey! It includes lightweight aluminum grommets for attachin' t' shroud lines. Arrr! T' parachute is 8-sided as opposed t' t' 6-sided parachutes most manufacturers offer.
As I said above, arrr, I missed me painting opportunity due t' t' cold o' winter. Begad! I will finish it later and update the review. Blimey! Finishin' will be modeler's choice and t' kit does nay come with any decals.
Update: Well, as you can see, me bucko, I have been able t' finish t' rocket. Blimey! I had a paint reaction with t' white around the fines. Aye aye! It is barely noticeable. Avast, me proud beauty! T' look is nice with t' transitions and 6 fins!
Overall, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 3 ½ points. Arrr! T' instructions described t' assembly process well and included illustrations. Begad! T' balsa nose cone tip is very fragile. Be sure to soak it with CA t' firm it up. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! T' bass wood and other parts were o' good quality. It is missin' a motor hook and decals.
FLIGHT/RECOVERY:
TMRK recommends t' 1/2A6-2, A8-3, B6-4 (first flight), ya bilge rat, C6-5 or D10-7 (Apogee) for flyin' t' Merlin. Blimey! TMRK's website adds t' B4-4 motor. Avast! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Also, TMRK's website says t' Merlin should weigh 1.55 ounces. Aye aye! My unfinished rocket weighed 1.5 ounces.
Flight preparation includes friction fitting the motor in place and usin' adequate waddin' t' protect t' parachute. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! The parachute is thin and folds nicely, however, t' eyelets make t' bottom rather thick. Ahoy! It actually doesn't fit into t' body tube if care isn't taken for those eyelets. Ahoy! I found that I could only fold t' 'chute in half (from top t' bottom) and nay in thirds. Ahoy! Blimey! Then I slide t' 'chute slightly so half t' eyelets are slightly above in t' others. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Then wrap t' shroud lines around t' 'chute. It works.
For t' first flight I used a 13mm A10-3 motor. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Yes, I wrapped it with maskin' tape until it fit. It turned in a very nice performance and t' rocket flew very straight. Ejection be at apogee and descent on t' 12" parachute was graceful.
I liked t' A10 so much that I made an adapter out of
an expended 18mm motor. Ahoy! Blimey! I added a motor hook t' t' adapter so that it would
retain 13mm motors. I friction fit t' adapter into t' motor mount. Avast! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! T' second
flight be on an A10-3, too. Aye aye! Blimey! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Blimey! A repeat o' t' first flight. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! However, ya bilge rat, this time
we saw evidence o' t' short elastic shock cord. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I caused t' nose cone t' kick
back and hit t' top if t' rocket. Blimey! Blimey! It put a nice indentation into t' shoulder
of t' rocket.
T' third flight was on an A8-3. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! This too, is a good match. Begad! Begad! No, thar be nay a lot o' altitude, matey, me hearties, may 200 feet, arrr, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, however it gives good flights t' watch and recover.
I will fly
this one on B's and C's, but need a bigger field first. Aye aye! T' t' left is the
results from me RockSim file.
For FLIGHT/RECOVERY, I would rate this kit 4 points. T' Merlin flies very well and straight. Aye aye! It is fast because it is so light. Begad! Ahoy! T' shock cord proved itself t' be a problem and should be fixed. T' parachute's quality is great but a bit troublesome t' get into t' body tube. Well, blow me down! I'd rather have it this way than a plastic 'chute though, so don't take this as a large negative. Motor retention was mentioned above.

I give t' kit an OVERALL ratin' o' 4 points. Blimey! TMRK has done a good job puttin' together this rocket and it would be a nice change for someone that just builds Estes or Quest rockets. Aye aye! The 6-fin, transitionin' design is unique and enjoyable t' build. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm looking forward t' paintin' it with very bright colors and puttin' it into t' air with some C power!
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M.K. (September 21, 2008)