I picked up t' Smoke and Fire kit when I bought t' A-SLAM from Thrustline Aerospace via eBay (Not thrilled with that, me hearties, arrr, but did it anyway). Many o' Thrustline's kits draw me t' them and this one was no different. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! I loved t' fact that it be a larger rocket with 3x24mm cluster configuration and t' many fins and transition.

T' kit's price starts at $34.75 (startin' bid on eBay). Interestingly, shiver me timbers, Thrustline doesn't use t' "buy it now" feature (presently). Aye aye! For this price, thar be a lot o' rocket. Avast! How can I say that? I compare it t' t' price o' an Estes Executioner E for about street price o' $31.

Like a number o' Thrustline's kits, ya bilge rat, it is based off o' t' 1.64" x 5.5" solid balsa nose cone (PNC-60MS). Ya scallywag! Blimey! This attaches t' a 14" payload tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! This then uses a solid balsa transition t' a 12" piece o' BT80 (2.6") tubing. Avast, me proud beauty! There is plenty o' 1/8" Balsa stock for t' many fins. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' kit also includes two laser-cut 1/8" plywood centerin' rings, me bucko, me bucko, three 24mm motor tubes, thrust rings, matey, arrr, and retainin' clips. Ahoy! Two 18" Mylar parachutes, Keelhaul®©™ and Elastic shock cords, swivels, me hearties, and eye-screws. Thrustline provides both 1/8" and 3/16" launch lugs. Blimey! And lastly a bag o' BB's for nose weight, .80 ounces worth. Well, blow me down!

CONSTRUCTION:

T' instructions are printed on a 7 pages o' 8½ x 11" paper (single sided). Avast, me proud beauty! There are black & white photos throughout t' assist in t' assembly o' t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! There are fin templates and tube markin' guides made from standard printer paper. Avast! Aye aye! There are also Mylar parachute assembly instructions. T' kit would probably be considered a skill level 3 or 4 with all t' various parts and activity.

There are many parts and buildin' steps t' this kit, matey, but let me highlight t' main events:

T' cluster motor mount is assembled first. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Interestingly, t' use o' t' provided motor hooks is optional. Step one points out that if you'd rather friction-fit your motors then t' skip "...all t' steps that pertain t' t' engine clips". Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I wanted t' use them, so that meant that I need t' cut t' notches in t' lower centerin' ring. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' instructions say t' use a sharp hobby knife, but I hit it with a Dremel tool. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

T' motor hooks are then added t' t' 24mm motor tubes and taped in place. Ya scallywag! They are then mounted into t' two centerin' rings. Arrr! Only a light sandin' was needed on t' 1/8" plywood centerin' t' make everythin' fit.

Once dried, t' builder needs t' add a 1/16" hole t' t' top centerin' ring. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! This allows t' 26" Keelhaul®©™® shock tether t' be tied around t' three motor tubes.

T' body tubes are marked next usin' paper tube markin' guides. Ahoy! No issues.

I'm nay terribly happy with t' 2.6" tube. Aye aye! It is Estes-like thin tubing. Begad! I find it t' be t' weakest component and would like t' see a thicker (LOC or AT-like) 2.6" tubing. Probably would need t' add more nose weight if it be converted.

Thrustline responded t' this comment this way: "As for t' BT80 tube, matey, I've never had any problem with it. Avast, me proud beauty! It's t' same tube used in t' Mike IX which I've had a lot o' success with. Blimey! As far as it bein' weak, me hearties, I have nay found that t' be t' case. T' motor mount gives excellent rigidity t' it."

I would agree that t' motor mount gives t' bottom portion rigidity, but I found t' upper openin' as t' weak point. Begad! Well, blow me down! Just an observation I made while handlin' t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Nay that big o' deal.

T' fins are then cut out usin' paper fin templates. Avast, me proud beauty! Boy oh boy, matey, I rather have card stock, me hearties, especially for those thin strakes.

Eye-screws and a piece o' 1/4" elastic is provided so that t' nose cone can be attached without bein' glued in place. I didn't do this and chose t' glue me nose cone into t' payload section (which technically could no longer be called a payload section since it is no longer accessible).

T' upper tube is glued t' t' upper part o' t' balsa transition. Begad! Avast! Then t' five (5) small strakes are added.

T' nose cone is prepared for nose weight by drillin' four 3/16" holes and usin' epoxy t' set t' BB's in place. T' center o' t' nose cone is where an eye-screw would go if you were makin' it removable for t' payload section.

Both t' 1/8" and 3/16" launch lugs are glued in place. Why two sizes? Thrustline says, "In t' photo you'll notice I used 2 sizes stacked against each other at 2 and 8 inches from t' end o' t' body tube. This allows me some flexibility when choosin' launch rods at club launches. Avast! Blimey! I have included 2 sizes (2 each) so that if you prefer, me hearties, you can use a similar method."

Finally, shiver me timbers, t' 42" long piece o' 3/8" flat shock cord is tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™ shock tether and then t' 18" parachute is added. Aye aye! Blimey! T' second 3/8" flat elastic is attached t' t' large end o' t' transition and then its 18" parachute is attached.

Finishing... yes, me bucko, me bucko, finishing. Blimey! Get your fillers, ya bilge rat, matey, ya bilge rat, sand paper, and patience all together. There is a lot o' balsa exposed here. Avast, me proud beauty! Lots o' grains t' fill. Well, blow me down! Lots o' joints t' sand. Lots o' work!

I used me typical multiple coats o' Plastic-Kote Primer and sandin' in-between. Aye aye! Havin' t' fill and finish t' nose cone, me hearties, ya bilge rat, t' transition, and 10 fins took a lot o' time and coats o' Plasti-Kote Filler Primer. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' transition is hardest due t' t' grain exposure AND because t' upper fins are half glued t' t' transition! I then used Walmart White and Black paint (additional comments about Walmart paint). I painted mine with some funky patterns. Got a bit carried away with t' masking. I was goin' for a NASA look. Begad! Ahoy! Eh, ya bilge rat, it has grown on me.

Overall, me bucko, me bucko, me hearties, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 4 points. Well, blow me down! T' instructions are very good with t' photos. Avast, me proud beauty! There are a number o' buildin' options that t' builder needs t' decide on: hooks, payload nose cone, matey, and launch lug size. Begad! T' parts quality was good with plenty o' balsa t' cut out t' five lower and five upper fins. Well, blow me down! Blimey! There is a balsa (BT60) nose cone and a balsa transition. Blimey! There is Keelhaul®©™ t' Elastic shock cords and mylar parachutes. There are no decals.

FLIGHT/RECOVERY:

Didn't find any motor recommendations in Thrustline's instructions, however these are what are listed on t' eBay page: 3x - C6-5s, C11-5s, ya bilge rat, me hearties, D12-5s.

Thrustline indicates t' finished rocket should weigh about 8.6 ounces. Well, me hearties, blow me down! My finished rocket weighed 8.1 ounces.

I flew mine on t' 3/16" lug/rod. Avast! I'm nay sure I'd like t' variability that would surely come from flyin' it on a 1/8" rod (whip).

First flight be on three C11-3s. Blimey! They were t' motors I had and I figured t' early ejection would nay be a big problem, especially with t' two-piece recovery method. Well, blow me down! I should have waited for some C11-5's. Ahoy! Arrr! I had a very early ejection, ya bilge rat, arrr, shiver me timbers, but that was nay t' worse o' it. Arrr! Apparently t' bulk o' waddin' I added was nay enough. Well, blow me down! It was 6-8 squares. Well, blow me down! So t' lower recovery section be badly burned, includin' t' lower 'chute. Ahoy! T' upper section ejected well and descended fine. Blimey! Arrr! T' lift-off was fast. Ya scallywag! I mean really fast!

I repaired t' lower 'chute and shock cord and added a Nomex heat shield. I then cleaned out me three C11's and drilled a larger hole in t' clay nozzle. I inverted them and had instant 24mm-to-18mm adaptors. Ahoy!

I then loaded it up with three Est SU C6-5's. Excellent flight up, straight and stable. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ejection was past apogee. Aye aye! Blimey! At ejection t' lower section 'chute never opened due t' a tangle.

I loaded it up again with three Est SU C6-3's. Arrr! Another slow and graceful lift-off. Arrr! Slower than t' C11's, o' course. Begad! At ejection t' upper and lower sections got tangled and it came down on only t' lower 'chute. No damage, though.

Determined t' have success, ya bilge rat, I loaded it up again with three Est SU C6-3's. This time after repeatin' a great lift-off, ya bilge rat, arrr, I had a fully successful parachute deployment. Bravo!

For FLIGHT/RECOVERY, I would rate this rocket 3 ½ points. T' Smoke and Fire looks great lifting-off on three C6's. Aye aye! Can't beat that slow, matey, ya bilge rat, majestic look. Avast, me proud beauty! It is a stable rocket as well. Avast, me proud beauty! T' complications that come from a 2.6" body tube and a two piece deployment showed itself with me flights. All o' these can be addressed with practice, so that, me hearties, me hearties, in itself, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, makes this a fun rocket for flying.

I give t' rocket an OVERALL ratin' o' 3 ½ points. Well, blow me down! I need t' say... Ya scallywag! DON'T BUY THIS KIT if you are lookin' for an easy t' build and easy t' finish rocket! However, if you are lookin' for a moderately challengin' build and a highly challengin' finish (unless you don't care about balsa grains and paint it all one color!) then this kit could be one o' your choices.

On t' other hand, once finished, this one can give you some nice flights. They can be more expensive since you are usin' up three motors a time... Well, blow me down! Blimey! but hey, me hearties, how else will you enjoy clusters?