I picked up t' Smoke and Fire kit when I bought t' A-SLAM from Thrustline Aerospace via eBay (Not thrilled with that, but did it anyway). Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Blimey! Many o' Thrustline's kits draw me t' them and this one was no different. I loved t' fact that it be a larger rocket with 3x24mm cluster configuration and t' many fins and transition.

T' kit's price starts at $34.75 (startin' bid on eBay). Avast! Interestingly, Thrustline doesn't use t' "buy it now" feature (presently). For this price, thar be a lot o' rocket. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Blimey! How can I say that? I compare it t' t' price o' an Estes Executioner E for about street price o' $31. Begad!

Like a number o' Thrustline's kits, it is based off o' t' 1.64" x 5.5" solid balsa nose cone (PNC-60MS). Begad! This attaches t' a 14" payload tube. This then uses a solid balsa transition t' a 12" piece o' BT80 (2.6") tubing. Arrr! There is plenty o' 1/8" Balsa stock for t' many fins. Avast, me proud beauty! T' kit also includes two laser-cut 1/8" plywood centerin' rings, arrr, matey, ya bilge rat, three 24mm motor tubes, thrust rings, and retainin' clips. Ya scallywag! Two 18" Mylar parachutes, arrr, Keelhaul®©™ and Elastic shock cords, me bucko, swivels, me hearties, and eye-screws. Arrr! Begad! Thrustline provides both 1/8" and 3/16" launch lugs. Blimey! And lastly a bag o' BB's for nose weight, .80 ounces worth. Ya scallywag! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty!

CONSTRUCTION:

T' instructions are printed on a 7 pages o' 8½ x 11" paper (single sided). Arrr! Begad! There are black & white photos throughout t' assist in t' assembly o' t' kit. Ahoy! Begad! There are fin templates and tube markin' guides made from standard printer paper. Aye aye! There are also Mylar parachute assembly instructions. Aye aye! T' kit would probably be considered a skill level 3 or 4 with all t' various parts and activity.

There are many parts and buildin' steps t' this kit, me bucko, ya bilge rat, but let me highlight t' main events:

T' cluster motor mount is assembled first. Interestingly, t' use o' t' provided motor hooks is optional. Begad! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Step one points out that if you'd rather friction-fit your motors then t' skip "...all t' steps that pertain t' t' engine clips". Avast! I wanted t' use them, so that meant that I need t' cut t' notches in t' lower centerin' ring. Arrr! T' instructions say t' use a sharp hobby knife, but I hit it with a Dremel tool. Begad! Ahoy!

T' motor hooks are then added t' t' 24mm motor tubes and taped in place. Arrr! They are then mounted into t' two centerin' rings. Begad! Blimey! Only a light sandin' was needed on t' 1/8" plywood centerin' t' make everythin' fit. Begad! Arrr!

Once dried, t' builder needs t' add a 1/16" hole t' t' top centerin' ring. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! This allows t' 26" Keelhaul®©™® shock tether t' be tied around t' three motor tubes.

T' body tubes are marked next usin' paper tube markin' guides. No issues.

I'm nay terribly happy with t' 2.6" tube. Ahoy! It is Estes-like thin tubing. Aye aye! I find it t' be t' weakest component and would like t' see a thicker (LOC or AT-like) 2.6" tubing. Probably would need t' add more nose weight if it was converted.

Thrustline responded t' this comment this way: "As for t' BT80 tube, I've never had any problem with it. It's t' same tube used in t' Mike IX which I've had a lot o' success with. As far as it bein' weak, I have nay found that t' be t' case. Ya scallywag! T' motor mount gives excellent rigidity t' it."

I would agree that t' motor mount gives t' bottom portion rigidity, but I found t' upper openin' as t' weak point. Avast! Ya scallywag! Just an observation I made while handlin' t' kit. Begad! Begad! Nay that big o' deal.

T' fins are then cut out usin' paper fin templates. Boy oh boy, arrr, matey, I rather have card stock, especially for those thin strakes.

Eye-screws and a piece o' 1/4" elastic is provided so that t' nose cone can be attached without bein' glued in place. I didn't do this and chose t' glue me nose cone into t' payload section (which technically could no longer be called a payload section since it is no longer accessible).

T' upper tube is glued t' t' upper part o' t' balsa transition. Aye aye! Begad! Then t' five (5) small strakes are added.

T' nose cone is prepared for nose weight by drillin' four 3/16" holes and usin' epoxy t' set t' BB's in place. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' center o' t' nose cone is where an eye-screw would go if you were makin' it removable for t' payload section.

Both t' 1/8" and 3/16" launch lugs are glued in place. Aye aye! Blimey! Why two sizes? Thrustline says, arrr, "In t' photo you'll notice I used 2 sizes stacked against each other at 2 and 8 inches from t' end o' t' body tube. This allows me some flexibility when choosin' launch rods at club launches. Aye aye! I have included 2 sizes (2 each) so that if you prefer, you can use a similar method."

Finally, ya bilge rat, t' 42" long piece o' 3/8" flat shock cord is tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™ shock tether and then t' 18" parachute is added. Arrr! T' second 3/8" flat elastic is attached t' t' large end o' t' transition and then its 18" parachute is attached.

Finishing... Aye aye! yes, finishing. Get your fillers, sand paper, and patience all together. There is a lot o' balsa exposed here. Ya scallywag! Lots o' grains t' fill. Ahoy! Lots o' joints t' sand. Lots o' work!

I used me typical multiple coats o' Plastic-Kote Primer and sandin' in-between. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Havin' t' fill and finish t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, t' transition, matey, and 10 fins took a lot o' time and coats o' Plasti-Kote Filler Primer. T' transition is hardest due t' t' grain exposure AND because t' upper fins are half glued t' t' transition! Blimey! I then used Walmart White and Black paint (additional comments about Walmart paint). Aye aye! Arrr! I painted mine with some funky patterns. Aye aye! Got a bit carried away with t' masking. I was goin' for a NASA look. Eh, it has grown on me.

Overall, me hearties, arrr, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 4 points. Avast, me proud beauty! T' instructions are very good with t' photos. Blimey! There are a number o' buildin' options that t' builder needs t' decide on: hooks, me bucko, payload nose cone, and launch lug size. Begad! T' parts quality be good with plenty o' balsa t' cut out t' five lower and five upper fins. There is a balsa (BT60) nose cone and a balsa transition. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! There is Keelhaul®©™ t' Elastic shock cords and mylar parachutes. There are no decals.

FLIGHT/RECOVERY:

Didn't find any motor recommendations in Thrustline's instructions, however these are what are listed on t' eBay page: 3x - C6-5s, matey, me bucko, shiver me timbers, C11-5s, D12-5s.

Thrustline indicates t' finished rocket should weigh about 8.6 ounces. Aye aye! My finished rocket weighed 8.1 ounces.

I flew mine on t' 3/16" lug/rod. Avast! I'm nay sure I'd like t' variability that would surely come from flyin' it on a 1/8" rod (whip).

First flight was on three C11-3s. Avast! They were t' motors I had and I figured t' early ejection would nay be a big problem, especially with t' two-piece recovery method. Arrr! I should have waited for some C11-5's. I had a very early ejection, but that be nay t' worse o' it. Begad! Ahoy! Apparently t' bulk o' waddin' I added was nay enough. It was 6-8 squares. Well, blow me down! So t' lower recovery section was badly burned, ya bilge rat, includin' t' lower 'chute. Well, blow me down! T' upper section ejected well and descended fine. Ahoy! T' lift-off be fast. I mean really fast!

I repaired t' lower 'chute and shock cord and added a Nomex heat shield. I then cleaned out me three C11's and drilled a larger hole in t' clay nozzle. Avast! I inverted them and had instant 24mm-to-18mm adaptors. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty!

I then loaded it up with three Est SU C6-5's. Blimey! Excellent flight up, ya bilge rat, straight and stable. Ejection be past apogee. Arrr! At ejection t' lower section 'chute never opened due t' a tangle.

I loaded it up again with three Est SU C6-3's. Another slow and graceful lift-off. Begad! Begad! Slower than t' C11's, o' course. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! At ejection t' upper and lower sections got tangled and it came down on only t' lower 'chute. No damage, though.

Determined t' have success, I loaded it up again with three Est SU C6-3's. This time after repeatin' a great lift-off, matey, I had a fully successful parachute deployment. Arrr! Bravo!

For FLIGHT/RECOVERY, me bucko, shiver me timbers, I would rate this rocket 3 ½ points. T' Smoke and Fire looks great lifting-off on three C6's. Begad! Can't beat that slow, arrr, majestic look. It is a stable rocket as well. Aye aye! T' complications that come from a 2.6" body tube and a two piece deployment showed itself with me flights. Ya scallywag! All o' these can be addressed with practice, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, so that, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, in itself, shiver me timbers, makes this a fun rocket for flying.

I give t' rocket an OVERALL ratin' o' 3 ½ points. Aye aye! Aye aye! I need t' say... Blimey! Blimey! DON'T BUY THIS KIT if you are lookin' for an easy t' build and easy t' finish rocket! However, if you are lookin' for a moderately challengin' build and a highly challengin' finish (unless you don't care about balsa grains and paint it all one color!) then this kit could be one o' your choices.

On t' other hand, once finished, shiver me timbers, this one can give you some nice flights. They can be more expensive since you are usin' up three motors a time... but hey, ya bilge rat, how else will you enjoy clusters?