Brief:
T' LOC Norad is a kit which has t' looks and feel o' a military missile and is one o' t' medium range kits from t' LOC line o' models. Ahoy! Blimey! It sports a three inch body that transitions t' two inches, uses a four fin configuration and stands over three feet tall. Aye aye! Blimey!

Modifications:
Fiberglassed Fins, Reinforced Shockcord Mount.

Construction:
In t' bag you will find a three inch lower body tube pre-slotted for fins, a 3" t' 2" plastic transition, matey, a two inch body tube, shiver me timbers, plastic nosecone, long 29mm motor mount tube, a single centerin' ring, matey, me bucko, ¼" elastic shock cord, matey, 24 inch nylon parachute, heavy paper ¼" launch lug and a single page o' instructions. All components are o' typical LOC quality, from the 1/8" aircraft ply used for fins through t' heavy paper body tubes. Arrr! Blimey! I was disappointed only in t' shock cord and it's side wall mounting; everything else was perfect.

Fifteen-minute epoxy was used throughout t' construction, which begins with t' assembly o' t' motor mount. A single, ya bilge rat, very long paper motor mount comes with t' kit and t' first step is to cut t' center out o' t' plastic transition coupler. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! It is marked for 29mm and I used an Exacto knife t' cut holes on both sides o' t' transition. Ya scallywag! The body tube is slipped through t' transition coupler and epoxied on t' top side. Blimey! They also want you t' glue t' single centerin' rin' on t' bottom. Well, blow me down! I wish they would have provided two CR's so t' fins could be wedged between them, shiver me timbers, me bucko, but t' single rin' on one end and support o' t' upper tube by running it through t' transition shoulder works fine. Avast! I installed t' tube in the transition and did nay install t' lower centerin' rin' until t' fins were epoxied and inside fillets were added. Blimey!

Once t' mount is installed, me bucko, you glue each fin t' t' motor mount. For a smaller kit, it came equipped with through-the-wall fin mounting, a nice touch on LOC's part. I tapered t' leadin' edge o' each fin prior t' installation and followed t' instructions t' t' letter. Ya scallywag! Blimey! For a single sheet o' instructions, it takes you easily through each step, arrr, which certainly made buildin' easier. Begad! Blimey! After the fins were installed, ya bilge rat, I glassed t' inside fin area t' t' body tube and motor mount for added strength, shiver me timbers, then fillets were added t' t' inside o' these joints. Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! Once completed, ya bilge rat, t' bottom centerin' rin' be epoxied in place. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

T' upper body tube is glued over t' transition shoulder next and, shiver me timbers, since I decided t' glass t' entire rocket, I removed the very top layer o' glassine from t' upper tube so it would easily soak up the glassin' resin. Blimey! Aye aye! T' entire model was fiberglassed usin' 2 oz cloth and epoxy finishin' resin, extra cloth was sanded off and fillets were added t' each fin. One o' t' final steps be t' mount t' six inch long ¼" heavy paper lug and I added fillets t' t' lug once it was set in place. Ya scallywag! T' added strength from fiberglassin' would brin' t' weight o' t' model t' about t' same as a PML kit and allow me t' launch it safely on a high power load. Ahoy!

Construction Rating: 4 o' 5

Finishing:
Sandin' was done in t' filet area usin' 100 grit paper, matey, shiver me timbers, then finished with 150 grit sandpaper. Avast! White Krylon primer was applied next and I used 150 grit t' cut away any excess epoxy resin left from t' fiberglassin' and t' blend in the cloth seams. Aye aye! Use an electric sander in t' glassed area, which will cut through the epoxy nicely and blend glass seams well. A few more coats o' primer were added, then I wet sanded with 220 grit. Blimey! Arrr! Two more coats o' primer were added and I finished it up by wet sandin' with 400 grit. Any small fillin' was done next, then two final coats o' primer were added and wet sanded with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

This rocket be a gift t' me daughter, ya bilge rat, so it was her turn t' decide the colors. For some reason she picked out Pink, ya bilge rat, as if it was goin' t' be a big surprise, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and we decided t' highlight it in black. Aye aye! Aye aye! I used Rustoleum Florescent Pink for t' main color and Semi-flat Krylon Black for t' contrastin' color and nosecone. Ahoy! It actually came out lookin' really nice, surprisingly enough, and she was very happy with t' results. Blimey!

As a final step, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, t' Nosecone and Parachute were t' be attached per the instructions. This be a very poor design for such a large rocket. Begad! Begad! T' upper body tube is extra heavy duty Kraft paper, arrr, ya bilge rat, t' which they want you t' glue a small Keelhaul®©™® strin' t' t' side and attach t' t' elastic shock cord. Begad! Nay acceptable t' me, especially since this be now an HPR model. Avast! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I cut a custom 2" diameter centerin' rin' out o' ½" thick ply and tapped two ¼" holes in t' sides o' t' ring. Then I installed a ¼" stainless by 1 ½" wide U-bolt through t' holes and epoxied this CR in t' upper body tube where it butted against t' motor mount tube and transition shoulder. A ½" Keelhaul®©™® strap was tied t' t' U-bolt and a quick link be used t' fasten t' parachute. Finally, me hearties, t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™® was tied t' t' nosecone. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! A medium sized Keelhaul®©™® cloth be also added t' eliminate t' need for wadding. Begad! T' end result be a very strong and safe recovery system. Ya scallywag! Begad!

Finish: 2 o' 5

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

Flight:
Our first flight was goin' t' be on a H128W with a medium delay, arrr, so t' motor was assembled and installed into t' model. A PMR retainer was used for motor retention, then t' parachute was packed. Aye aye! Some maskin' tape be required on the base o' t' nosecone t' make is snug enough for a good fit. We then waited our turn and finally got t' model on t' pad. Liftoff be excellent! T' rocket boosted swiftly through t' air and held together just fine durin' it's flight. I had one very happy little lass next t' me when it lifted off.

Recovery:
T' parachute deployed right at apogee and t' rocket landed about 75 feet away from t' pad. Well, blow me down! We walked out and examined it; t' Norad had faired without a scratch and provided us with one great flight and recovery. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! It be getting late, so no additional flights were made with it, but t' Norad will fly again soon. Aye aye! Begad!

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
T' LOC Norad is one really sweet flyin' model! It is very easy t' build and even though t' instructions seem minimal, ya bilge rat, they are well written. Fiberglassing, although nay necessary, ya bilge rat, was me choice t' make it a stronger HPR capable bird. Avast! About t' only complaint I had be with t' recovery system; the parachute is perfect, but t' side wall shock cord mountin' and elastic cord has a lot t' be desired. Blimey! Aye aye! But I have t' admit, matey, for t' loot you do get LOC quality t' include extremely thick walled Kraft body tubes and strong transition and nosecone. Blimey! Begad! T' Norad should last us a long time and I look forward t' flyin' it over and over again. Arrr! Besides, arrr, I have a 10 year old that will make sure we put it in t' air! I highly recommend t' kit and feel it's a great model for all rocketeers!

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5