Brief:
T' PML Amraam 4 is a half-scale version o' t' AMRAAM/AIM-120 used by both t' U.S. Navy and Air Force as a medium range air t' air missile. T' kit is semi-scale due t' t' fact it is 1/2" larger in diameter and 6" longer than a true 1/2 scale representation.

Components:
My kit be custom ordered from Magnum Rockets as a CPR3000 ready kit, arrr, matey, which means t' lower tube was pre-cut at t' factory t' incorporate t' CPR3000 Dual Deployment option. Aye aye! Note this now: I HIGHLY recommend anyone buildin' this kit t' go t' extra mile and purchase t' CPR3000 option with t' kit. Ahoy! T' CPR3000 Dual Deployment System allows t' use o' a larger variety o' motors that can reach some high altitudes while maintainin' a closer recovery for t' rocket. Please note that, shiver me timbers, with this kit, t' CPR3000 cannot be added at a later date because o' t' way t' A4 is constructed for single deploy.

Another tip; t' kit also comes with PML's "Kwik Switch 2000", ya bilge rat, includin' a 54mm top threaded motor mount, which allows you t' simply screw in supplied motor adapters for 38mm and 29mm. Avast! Ahoy! You should be able t' request t' kit with t' LONGER motor mount tubes or can order t' "Extended Kwik Switch". As t' kit comes, it will nay accept t' 38/720-1080 motors or t' 54/1706 Motor. Ya scallywag! Begad! T' extended version includes longer motor mount tubes t' incorporate t' longer RMS Motors, however, I built mine with t' standard tubes and now wish I had t' longer ones installed. Avast! Well, me hearties, blow me down! One final recommendation would be t' upgrade your parachute size from t' stock 54" t' 60" t' compensate for t' extra weight o' t' CPR3000.

T' kit came in a bag with t' lower half tube pre-cut with t' lower fin section at 16 1/2" in length, shiver me timbers, which be t' only requirement for CPR conversion on this model. Blimey! Also, matey, included were t' nosecone, upper tube pre-slotted for center fins, G-10 Fiberglass fins, bulkheads, arrr, pistons, couplers, 54" ripstop nylon parachute and all t' hardware. Begad! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! This is a superb quality kit, me hearties, usin' t' best components commercially available. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! T' body tubes were made o' PML's "Quantum" tubing, matey, approximately 1/16" thick plastic, matey, me hearties, somewhat flexible/forgivin' and smooth with no spirals. Well, blow me down! A quality set o' decals also came with t' kit, along with an easy t' follow instruction manual.

T' CPR3000 came separately with t' aluminum threaded CPR couplers, shiver me timbers, matey, altimeter bay, me hearties, arrr, dual pistons (this left me with an extra piston, which was used for other means durin' construction) shock cords, arrr, centerin' rings, 38mm Altimeter bay tubes, shiver me timbers, altimeter mounts, "O" rings, 6amp on-off switch for t' altimeter and all associated hardware needed t' incorporate it into t' Amraam 4. Begad! T' instruction manual was very good and step-by-step construction went very well.

Component Rating: 5 o' 5

Construction:
Epoxy (15 minute) be used throughout t' construction, matey, which begins with t' assembly o' t' Kwik-Switch 2000. Begad! T' plastic threaded top caps are epoxied t' each o' t' 54, ya bilge rat, 38 and 29mm tubes, shiver me timbers, then centerin' rings are glued t' t' lower section o' tube for each o' t' 38mm and 29mm adapters. Sand these centerin' rings for a good fit into t' 54mm motor mount, but don't over-sand as you want a smooth fit with no play. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Glue a fillet on both sides o' t' ¼" ply centerin' rings.

Once t' motor mount and adapters are complete, arrr, me hearties, you need t' assemble t' CPR3000 assemblies. Ahoy! Follow t' instructions as you construct t' upper and lower assemblies. Pay attention t' t' Blue Aluminum threaded adapters and install them as indicated. Avast! Also, shiver me timbers, note that t' altimeter bay section is installed in t' lower body tube and is longer than t' other CPR assembly. Ya scallywag! Once you have glued t' black shock/piston straps t' t' sides o' each CPR assembly, ya bilge rat, GLAZE t' top o' each strap with epoxy for added strength. Finally, you glue t' assemblies into each body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Follow t' instructions here and it will go well. A quick note, matey, matey, me hearties, I used 80 grit sandpaper on all parts o' t' plastic Quantum body tube for roughin' up an area prior t' gluing. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! It has more bite than t' suggested 120 grit and cuts deeper grooves for a good glue joint. Ya scallywag! After t' upper CPR assembly is glued in t' tube, me hearties, clean out t' upper fin slots o' any epoxy before it sets so t' upper fins will fit flush later.

Once t' CPR 3000 is installed in both tubes, me hearties, you will see why a rocket already built cannot be converted t' t' dual deploy system. Begad! For a NON-CPR kit they would have you glue in a 12" long body tube coupler where t' upper CPR unit resides, me bucko, then glue t' upper fins t' t' coupler. Begad! For this reason, shiver me timbers, you need t' decide on t' CPR system PRIOR t' construction. Blimey! I wound up usin' t' unused 12" coupler as a "holder" while paintin' t' body tubes.

Before you assemble t' pistons, take t' extra piston tube from t' kit bag and glue it inside t' upper body tube, flush with t' top plywood centerin' rin' o' t' upper CPR assembly. I did this for two reasons; it gives you some surface area t' glue t' center fins on and it prevents t' upper piston from gettin' stuck at t' fin area durin' flight/prep. Ya scallywag! Once you glue this extra piston in, epoxy t' upper piston assembly t' t' black shock/piston cord. Begad! I also used epoxy and glazed t' inner and outer wooden surfaces o' each piston and t' bulkhead once assembled. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! This makes them stronger and waterproof/powder proof so they can easily be cleaned up at t' field.

Next, matey, ya bilge rat, you assemble t' lower body tube. Blimey! Blimey! Sand t' entire outer surface o' t' 54mm tube and t' inner surface o' t' body tube at t' fin area with 80 grit sandpaper. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Glue t' 54mm Motor mount in, but do nay use t' "scotch tape" method on t' aft centerin' rin' as they suggest. Trust me, me bucko, t' tape just breaks off. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I installed t' motor mount and t' aft centerin' rin' without tape, arrr, then, ya bilge rat, once t' glue was set at t' top, I used a metal ruler through t' fin slot t' push t' lower centerin' rin' back out. Ahoy! Much easier t' do than tape.

Lower fins are glued on next; I put a small amount o' epoxy on t' edge o' a fin, then inserted it through t' fin slot and allowed its own weight t' hold it down on t' motor tube. Begad! Aye aye! I did nay use a jig, but rather used t' method shown for gluin' all fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Once all four fins were glued, I cut 1 1/2" wide strips o' 2oz fiberglass cloth t' t' length o' each fin, then glassed t' space from t' motor mount t' t' fin and inner body tube. Ahoy! Soakin' t' cloth in epoxy then foldin' it around a 1/2" wide stick allowed me t' insert it into t' tube, then t' stick was used t' make sure t' cloth be pressed down on all surfaces. Arrr! This added strength inside t' body tube like you cannot believe, arrr, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, as I have had these fins break clean off without glassin' on other PML kits. Begad! Arrr! I now glass all me fins and it pays off!!!

Once t' fins are glued on, you glue t' bulkhead assembly t' t' top o' t' fin tube. CAUTION!!! Blimey! I found a problem here with t' design o' t' kit, so pay attention. Blimey! Blimey! T' instructions tell you t' glue t' bulkhead/coupler into t' body tube flush against t' motor centerin' rin' and leave half o' it stickin' out. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Well, it leaves a bit more than half stickin' out, about 4 1/2" t' be exact. THIS IS A BIG PROBLEM. Blimey! Blimey! When t' lower CPR body tube is slid over this bulkhead, matey, thar be less than 1 1/2" o' space betwixt t' top o' t' bulkhead and t' face o' t' lower piston. Arrr! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! There is NO WAY you can insert a shock cord and drogue chute in this small space. I worked with t' PML techs and suggested they shorten t' coupler tube so that only 3 1/2" are stickin' out o' t' lower fin body tube. Arrr! Blimey! They are currently in t' process o' applyin' this modification as an addendum t' ALL Amraam 4 CPR only kits so you may see a fix in your kit by t' time this is published.

Next step is t' glue on t' upper fins, me hearties, which went well. Once all 8 fins were glued, I fiberglassed all o' them on usin' 1 1/2 oz cloth and 15 minute epoxy. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! I ran t' cloth from about 2" up one fin, arrr, down and across t' body tube and up t' other fin about 2". FYI: usin' this method I have NEVER broken a fin out o' t' slot, me bucko, as had happened before on PML kits as small as 2" without fiberglassing. Ya scallywag! Well, me hearties, blow me down! If you fly on any kind o' hard surface or in t' winter, fiberglass your rocket's fins.

Launch lug placement instructions are supplied in t' kit, me hearties, but use t' locations provided in t' CPR kit when gluin' them on if you use CPR. Blimey! My upper lug be flush with t' top o' t' lower CPR tube per PML's recommendation. Make sure you install t' altimeter and 4" O-ring, me bucko, then tighten t' tube and align t' upper fins t' t' lower fins. Now you can glue on t' lugs. Begad! I used a 3' piece o' 1/2 " steel rod t' align t' lugs while t' glue set. Finally, I applied fillets t' each fin side and t' sides o' each launch lug. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I turned t' rocket so fins were at a 45 degree angle, shiver me timbers, me bucko, used maskin' tape t' create a "dam" on t' top and bottom o' each fin, then mixed 15 minute epoxy with some milled fiberglass from Bob Violett Models and poured it in t' area. Avast! Heatin' t' epoxy in t' microwave so it is hot and runs like water makes it easier t' pour in t' area and leaves nearly a sandin' free fillet. See t' pictures for fillets on me rocket.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Finishing:
White Krylon primer be applied prior t' t' first sandin' and I used 100 grit t' cut away any excess epoxy resin left from t' fiberglassin' and t' blend in t' cloth seams. Well, blow me down! Avast! Use an electric sander in t' glassed area, which cuts through t' epoxy nicely and blends glass seams well . A few more coats o' primer were added, matey, ya bilge rat, then I wet sanded with 220 grit. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Finally, two more coats o' primer were added and I finished it up by wet sandin' with 400 grit. Once primer be finished, t' Quantum body tubes and fins paint like a dream!

Light Gray Glossy Krylon paint was used on t' body tubes and fins, which left a nice and smooth surface t' apply decals. Avast, me proud beauty! T' nosecone be done in Krylon Flat White. Arrr! I used Testors Gloss Navy Blue, Gold and Yellow for t' 1" stripes and used a piece o' Monokote self stick Chrome for t' silver section. Begad! Begad! Once all decals were applied, I used TopFlite Clear Dullcoat for t' flat military look. Ahoy! Do nay use Testors Dullcoat; it leaves dirt and fingerprints like crazy which cannot be cleaned. Ya scallywag! T' TopFlite can be found at any R/C hobby shop and is waterproof, alcohol proof and cleans easily. Well, blow me down! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! When applyin' t' Dullcoat, you must use light "dusting" layers; t' Testors stripes you painted will orange peel if you put it on too thick. I had t' re-do me yellow stripe for this reason, learned me lesson, matey, and t' rest o' t' rocket came out great. Aye aye! Arrr! Just use light coats and it will Dullcoat fine.

Finally, matey, shock cords and parachutes were attached per t' instructions. Blimey! Avast! Don't forget t' tack glue your knots with a drop o' epoxy. Begad! You also get two really cool 2" steel links with t' CPR kit; a very nice touch for mountin' t' parachutes.

Finish Rating: 5 o' 5

Flight:
My rocket weighed in heavy; 7lbs 9oz when comparin' t' t' PML charts o' 5lbs. I can account for t' extra weight though, arrr, since I had an extra pound or more for t' CPR and another pound plus due t' glassin' and fillets.

I used an Altec RAS-2 Recordin' Altimeter with dual deploy for t' electronics. Altec has a pretty much flawless reputation and I wanted somethin' that would record all me flight data, shiver me timbers, me bucko, so this was t' one for me. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! T' rocket was easy t' prep and t' CPR3000 is a dream t' load. Arrr! Daveyfire 28BR Electric matches were used for t' CPR charges and I used .7grams o' FFFFg black powder in t' aft section for drogue chute deployment and 1 gram in t' forward section for t' main chute. Ahoy! Aye aye! My good friend Ken Parker designed a scooper for t' powder charges later on, usin' empty brass from shell casings or you can use plugged brass tubing. Begad! We measured in t' powder, marked t' side o' t' case, dumped out t' powder and cut it t' length for a perfect sized scooper. My first flight was t' be on a J275W, so I prepped one more Daveyfire with about 3" o' Red Thermalite taped t' t' match head for t' motor igniter.

This was me Tripoli Level 2 Certification flight at Whitakers, shiver me timbers, NC, so t' altimeter was powered on and inserted into it's bay at t' launch pad, CPR halves were screwed together, fins were aligned and t' rocket was placed on t' launch rod. Avast! Begad! Countdown was on and, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, when it lit, WOW, matey, ya bilge rat, what a sight!!! You HAVE t' experience it, t' rocket left t' pad like it was on rails, shiver me timbers, straight up, me bucko, yellow orange flame spewin' out o' t' bottom with an ECHO o' t' motor's sound literally ringin' through t' air, ya bilge rat, me hearties, followed by a thick trail o' white smoke.

Recovery:
Drogue chute separated right at apogee and t' free fall was on. Avast! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I set t' altimeter t' blow t' main chute out at 750'. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! It worked like a charm and t' cheers were thar when t' big 60" chute ballooned out and landed t' rocket safely, me bucko, me bucko, matey, WITHOUT a SCRATCH! Blimey! Moreover, I received me Level 2 certification. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Thanks t' t' Prefects, Ken Allen o' Performance Hobbies and many supportin' onlookers o' Whitakers NC for makin' it a day t' remember! Blimey! In all me hobbies, shiver me timbers, rocketeers have been t' BEST group o' people I have ever met!!!

I launched one more J275W that evenin' t' wrap up t' last flight o' t' weekend and achieved success once more, with an added bonus. T' darker skies helped t' fire trail leave a "star" shape in t' video, which really looks slick on film. Arrr! Begad! Another safe landin' convinced me that t' extra effort durin' construction paid off. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Finally, me bucko, flight data was downloaded t' me laptop; I achieved an altitude o' 3023', pulled 7.2 G's, ya bilge rat, hit Mach .46 and t' graphs showed each deployment charge as they fired... Begad! Ya scallywag! I really like that Altec altimeter! Total flight t' landin' was 88 seconds with t' CPR; it would have been minutes with a non-CPR kit. Begad! Decent with t' 60" (yes, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I upgraded) parachute was around 18-20 feet per second, me hearties, me bucko, so t' choice t' use a larger chute paid off. Ya scallywag! T' J275W is a perfect choice for this model; I do want t' try a few others though and will report on them in t' Flight Log section. Ahoy! Only minor problem I encountered was t' paint on t' bottom o' me rocket was a bit scorched from t' blast. Aye aye! I had it too close t' t' deflector, so this fault be entirely all mine.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
T' PML Amraam 4 is a thin' o' beauty once assembled. Ahoy! All deadlights turn on you and those nay lookin' soon jump out o' their seats when those BIG HP motors ignite! I am very pleased with this kit and look forward t' many launches with it in t' future. Blimey! Begad! T' only downside was t' problem with t' lower coupler bein' too long, me bucko, ya bilge rat, which I found out about AFTER assembly. PML should now have this corrected in t' documentation though, me hearties, so future builders should be ok. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Also, make sure you take care when alignin' t' launch lugs; once they are on, it's tough t' re-position them. Well, blow me down! Finally, USE t' CPR3000, ya bilge rat, matey, fiberglass your fins and upgrade t' a bigger parachute; you will regret it if you don't! In summary, ya bilge rat, this kit rocks and I look forward t' many more purchases from PML, as their quality and Tech Service is excellent, me hearties, bar none!

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5