Brief:
Another absolutely wild futuristic design by t' mad scientist/evil genius Jim Flis, shiver me timbers, me bucko, featurin' primarily rin' fin stability and ducted ejection plus a nose cone sure t' draw a strong like/hate opinion...

Construction:
While you might be a little scared off by t' $28.95 retail price on this, when you open up t' kit and start t' look over t' amount and quality o' parts, you'll find it's really a decent value, me bucko, especially factorin' in t' eye appeal o' t' finished kit. Aye aye! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! T' parts list includes:

• 3 BT-101 rin' fins
• BT-55 upper body tube
• BT-60 lower body ring/support
• 2 BT-20 lower body tubes, matey, me bucko, one o' which serves as motor mount
• BT-5 body tube, serves as central support t' BT-101
• BT-2 transition body tubes (3)
• Balsa nose cone
• Laser cut fiber fins, shiver me timbers, me hearties, jigs
• 16" plastic chute kit
• Keelhaul®©™/elastic shock cord
• Decorative toothpicks
• Peel and stick vinyl decals

T' instructions are very good, clearly illustrated, and span 35 basic steps over 6 pages. Well, blow me down! It's rated a skill level 3.5 on a 5 scale, though that strikes me as slightly high. Blimey! While it certainly looks like a complex build, matey, I found it much easier than expected, and t' design and fit on this is outstanding. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I'd expect 5-8 hours o' construction time plus some potentially time consumin' finishing.

There are a couple o' "gotchas" and tips I'll get out up front on this. Arrr! Early releases o' t' kit had an incorrect laser cut fiber fin sheet. I think this has generally been handled via replacements bein' made available almost immediately after t' kit's release at NARCON in March 2007, me bucko, but if you pick one up from a retailer, you might want t' email t' folks at FlisKits t' confirm you have a good set o' fins. Ya scallywag! I got a hold o' an early one (#55) at NARCON, and t' corrected fins made it t' me home practically before I made it back.

T' other warnin' is t' really think through how you want t' paint this before you go too deep in t' construction. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! If you want t' use sharply contrastin' colors, you'll find it easier t' paint parts before bondin' (maskin' off bond lines). Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! This thin' would be a real menace t' try t' mask once built, me bucko, forcin' you t' hand paint many details.

Construction begins with t' funky motor mount. Well, blow me down! You start off with a standard 2.75 inch BT-20 tube, but t' forward end is a 20/5 centerin' rin' with a BT-5 stuck t' t' end o' it. Blimey! On t' other end o' t' BT-5 is another centerin' rin' holdin' another BT-20. This gives you a pair o' BT-20s connected with 1.125" o' exposed BT-5. That gap is critical, as t' instruction note that t' BT-101s go thar and can be used t' test t' fit/alignment.

Next, matey, you get t' work on t' BT-101 rings. Because t' tubes are only 1.125" tall, they are pretty pliable and don't retain their circular shape very well. This makes markin' them tricky. Ahoy! Each tube gets a set o' fiber fin braces tacked t' it at 12, arrr, 3 and 9 o'clock position with one o' t' braces trailin' down below t' tube at t' 6 o'clock position. Aye aye! Begad! This trailin' end eventually attaches t' t' lower BT-20 for support.

T' transition from t' lower BT-20 t' t' upper BT-55 is accomplished via a trio o' BT-2 tubes. T' alignment o' these is somewhat challenging. At t' forward end, ya bilge rat, they are spaced via two laser-cut/drilled fiber centerin' disks spaced about an inch apart, matey, which also serves as t' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord anchor point. Begad! At t' aft end, me hearties, thar's another pair o' centerin' disks with tighter spacin' basically forcin' t' tubes together. T' aft disks slide into t' upper BT-20, and t' forward disks slide into t' BT-55. Arrr! T' make sure you get everythin' perfectly aligned, thar's even a little jig made from various laser cut fiber pieces and a template printed on t' back o' t' header card. You'll want t' make sure you get good solid glue joints around t' disks, me bucko, as they take a lot o' ejection gas force.

With t' basic frame o' t' BT-20s, trio o' BT-2s, and upper BT-55 in place, you can now bond t' BT-101 rings on place. Ahoy! Blimey! As previously noted, these slip perfectly in t' 1.125" gap betwixt t' BT-20s, restin' flush against t' BT-5. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' trailin' fiber rib/fin/supports are bonded t' t' lower BT-20, ya bilge rat, and a little BT-60 rin' slides over them t' secure them in place. Begad! Blimey! If you've got everythin' right, arrr, ya bilge rat, you'll wind up with BT-101s touchin' each other on tangents and touchin' t' BT-5 on a tangent as well. Again, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, it sounds and looks complex but is remarkably easy and hard t' goof with t' instructions and supportin' jigs/alignment techniques.

At this point, arrr, construction is basically done save for some decorative touches (toothpicks stuck in various nooks and crannies) and attachin' t' launch lugs (one piece flush t' t' BT-60, another t' t' BT-20 with a standoff). Avast! I cheated a little bit by trimmin' down t' launch lug t' match t' width o' t' BT-60, avoidin' an ugly hangin' tube.

Finishing:
OK, shiver me timbers, arrr, if you really want a beautiful finish on this, be prepared for some serious work/effort. If you want t' fly it within a day or two o' construction, you can certainly whip through t' finish and hand paint a few pieces, me bucko, and it will look fine.

First off, I wound up fillin' tube spirals before construction, knowin' thar be no way I'd be able t' sand this with any force once built. Arrr! Note that this includes t' BT-2s and t' insides o' t' BT-101s, shiver me timbers, which I forgot t' do, arrr, me bucko, and t' BT-60 ring, me hearties, arrr, which have some downright nasty grooves in them.

I wound up paintin' me Borealis in modules. Blimey! T' lower BT-20s (masked off t' BT-5 for a naked bondin' surface) got primer followed by three coats o' Rustoleum blue metallic. Blimey! T' BT-2 trio got t' same treatment but with silver metallic, as did t' upper BT-55 and nose cone. T' BT-101 rings got gold metallic before bondin' t' fiber fins. Begad! T' fiber fins got gloss black, and I followed up by hand paintin' t' edges a bright red. Avast! T' lower BT-60 got silver metallic, ya bilge rat, again before bonding. Aye aye! Arrr! I hand painted t' assorted toothpick details red before bondin' and tacked in place usin' a tiny dot o' CA t' avoid paint runs.

I've got t' toss in a comment or two about t' decals on this. Ahoy! In general, arrr, FlisKits's kits rarely use decals and when they do they're either excellent quality waterslides (ex. Begad! U.S.S. Avast, me proud beauty! Grissom) or t' peel and sticks that so many o' us absolutely hate (ex. Avast, me proud beauty! Cheetah, me hearties, shiver me timbers, Flea). Well, blow me down! Recognizin' that many a FlisKits's kit would be greatly improved with decorative decals, me hearties, Jim's been doin' a lot o' R & D in this area. Arrr! T' resultin' process be introduced shortly before NARCON 2007 in t' form o' range box stickers printed on vinyl stock. Ya scallywag! T' quality o' t' artwork and reproduction is superb, t' decals are fairly thin/flexible, shiver me timbers, and therefore are easy t' work with. T' adhesive is also top quality (once cured out, you'll never get 'em off).

I'm generally anti-stickers, but think these vinyl decals are a great addition t' a sport design (too thick for scale). Ahoy! Even better--these are also pre-cut, so you don't need t' waste time trimmin' t' t' edge lines with scissors. Well, blow me down! Begad! I just wish I'd paid attention t' that little note in t' instructions, matey, as I wound up cuttin' mine first and then wonderin' why little wispy edges were peelin' off...

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
For t' maiden flight, I hooked up with Jim Flis at t' National Sport Launch 2007 in Muncie, Indiana. Aye aye! Avast! Blimey! Holdin' t' Borealis in me hands, shiver me timbers, it felt incredibly fragile, me bucko, so I figured what better place t' destroy it than in front o' t' designer, shiver me timbers, where I might score a free replacement. Arrr! Blimey! Jim commented that he'd flown a number o' prototypes without problem, but mine would be t' first he'd ever seen o' someone else flyin' one.

I went aggressive for t' first flight, choosin' a C6-3. I figured with t' big rings and long body, me bucko, it would be high drag, but it tore off t' pad and climbed at a fast clip. Begad! Ahoy! Apogee was nose up, shiver me timbers, though very slowly climbin' at that point. With all t' doodads and trimmings on this, ya bilge rat, me hearties, like t' Night Whisperer, you definitely want an early deployment rather than a nose-down deployment or you will break off trimmings, so stick with t' B6-2 or C6-3.

Recovery:
T' 16" chute brought it safely back t' earth. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Despite a number o' unfortunate flights and damage on just about everythin' that hit t' dry/hard ground that weekend, shiver me timbers, t' Borealis suffered no damage whatsoever and wound up spendin' t' rest o' t' weekend on display at t' FlisKits booth. Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! It was a wonderful flight, and I look forward t' another shot at flyin' it.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a great rocket with nothin' but pros--cool design, nay too tough t' build, ya bilge rat, flies beautifully, ya bilge rat, and really nice decals.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5