This article describes how I made a custom nose cone from green floral foam and fiberglass. T' example shown here was 5in diameter, 7 1/8in tall with 5/8in shoulder.

Begin with green foam blocks o' t' sort that some people use t' make floral arrangements. This foam can be found at most hobby shops and other stores, and comes in a variety o' sizes. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Glue together a foam block o' sufficient size, if necessary, usin' a very liberal layer o' yellow glue.

Next, you need a hole-drillin' bit. Avast, me proud beauty! I have one that drills holes o' 2-inch diameter. T' bit looks like an inverted cup with saw-toothed rim, about an inch tall and two inches wide. Drill in t' t' foam, me hearties, in t' approximate center, t' t' depth o' t' bit, arrr, and withdraw. Use a hobby knife t' remove t' isolated foam material, formin' a cylindrical hole in t' block. T' first photo shows t' foam block after this step.

Next, carefully wrap your bit in maskin' tape. and then epoxy it into t' hole. Ahoy! Now you can mount t' entire block in your power drill. Ya scallywag! Carefully clamp t' drill in a vise, so that t' axis o' rotation is as vertical as possible. Use a C-clamp or other means t' keep t' drill trigger in t' ON position; use t' plug for on/off.

Usin' a file (and maybe a knife or saw), coarsly shape t' block. Do nay venture too close t' t' desired final pattern, me bucko, but try t' make a shape that is nearly round. Avast, me proud beauty!

CAUTION: T' next step is extremely messy and probably nay too healthy! Goggles are absolutely necessary, and a breathin' mask helps. Begad! Cover or remove anythin' precious within at least 15 feet o' t' work area. When I finished t' turning, I be covered in a half-inch layer o' fluffy green foam residue (includin' me eyeballs, ya bilge rat, me ear canals, me hearties, nostrils, me bucko, etc) and me kids called me t' "green snowman". Ahoy! There are still drifts o' t' stuff in corners o' me garage after vacuuming!

Start t' drill spinning. Avast, me proud beauty! Use 150-grit sandpaper t' shape t' nose cone as it spins. Ahoy! Work freehand. Start with a sandin' block and switch t' just fingers after t' foam is rounded. Ya scallywag! Use a light touch because it is very easy t' remove too much material. Avast, me proud beauty! It is very handy t' have calipers t' gauge t' correct diameter, especially at t' base and for t' shoulder. Remove a little bit extra from t' shoulder, because you need room for a layer o' paper/phenolic tubin' there. Ya scallywag!

Finish all t' shapin' in one session without removin' t' block from t' drill. If you remove it, you run t' risk that it will be off kilter slightly when you remount it. Arrr! Powerin' on/off is okay. Ahoy!

Congratulations, you have completed t' first part o' t' project! See t' photo o' me nose cone next t' t' body tube. In this photo you can also see how t' drill bit was installed. You can remove t' drill bit at any point hereafter, but I found it useful t' retain it until t' last possible minute because it makes a convenient handle and mountin' point.

Next, we need t' harden t' nose cone. Well, blow me down! I'm nay sure if this first step is necessary, but I began by paintin' t' entire surface with epoxy and lettin' it cure. Well, blow me down! This gave me a firmer surface t' work with. Begad! Next, lay down two layers o' 6oz fiberglass, arrr, curin' betwixt layers. It can be very difficult t' get t' fiberglass t' lay smooth over such a curved surface. Ya scallywag! I used four leaves shaped like t' template shown here. Aye aye! (This template is only t' give t' idea; t' actual shape will depend on your nose cone.) For t' second layer, I staggered t' leaves by 45 degrees. A few small patches at t' very nose tip can help smooth t' top. Aye aye!

Next we construct t' shoulder. Use a scrap rin' o' body tubin' and cut out a sliver so t' rin' slips gently inside t' body tube when rejoined. Blimey! Once t' rin' is re-sized appropriately, it should be epoxied directly t' t' foam shoulder.

Now it is time for t' tedious smoothin' process. Ya scallywag! Mask off t' shoulder. Begad! Use wood filler, putty, Kilz, or your favorite filler t' fill t' surface o' t' nose cone until you are satisfied with t' finish. Ahoy! I find that paintin' t' surface with gray primer helps identify small blemishes that need further work. Well, blow me down!

T' next step is t' add nose weight (if you need any). Usin' t' drill, a knife, shiver me timbers, or sandpaper on a stick, fashion a crude hole all t' way up inside t' nose cone until you expose t' underside o' t' nose tip. Make sure you have exposed t' fiberglass thar so you won't be gluin' t' foam! Drop in t' weights and epoxy permanently.

Now we cap t' nose base. Arrr! Cut a plywood disk that will match t' *inside* diameter o' t' shoulder ring. Affix an eye bolt or other shock cord attachment device t' t' disk. Now remove about 3/8 inch layer o' green foam across t' whole surface o' t' nose cone bottom. When you are finished, t' disk should fit snugly inside, layin' flat against t' foam. T' surface o' t' disk should be recessed about 1/8 inch inside t' nose cone shoulder ring. Begad! Glue t' disk in position, matey, then make a strong epoxy fillet around t' recessed lip where t' disk meets t' interior o' t' shoulder ring. T' next photo shows t' result.

It was at this point that I accidentally dropped t' nose cone onto t' tiled kitchen floor. I can report that thar was no damage t' either t' cone or t' floor. Begad!

Finally, paint t' cone. Begad! I chose a Krylon blue with Walmart clear over t' top. Ahoy!

I cannot tell you that this job was fast or easy. Well, blow me down! But it was an incredible learnin' experience and you will feel a real sense o' accomplishment when you have finished. Well, blow me down! T' methods can be adapted t' make some very unusually shapes. I'm sure that people will ask where you "bought" such an incredible nose cone.