Orbital Engineering Ltd VMX-2

Orbital Engineering Ltd - VMX-2

Contributed by Darren Longhorn

Manufacturer: Orbital Engineering Ltd
(Contributed - by Darren J Longhorn - 04/01/04)

Brief:

T' VMX-2 Spaceplane is a new rocket glider kit by t' equally new UK rocketry company, Orbital Engineering. Avast, me proud beauty! You may have seen t' pre-production prototype of this kit flyin' at various rocketry events in 2002, me bucko, includin' t' IRW and K-Lob. Aye aye!

On openin' t' sturdy corrugated cardboard box, matey, first impressions are very good. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Three sheets and four strips o' balsa wrapped in bubble wrap, me hearties, a nice piece o' BT-20, all t' small parts in a resealable bag, and a very comprehensive lookin' set o' instructions. Arrr! I should point out at this stage that t' kit supplied was a production prototype, and t' final production kits may differ slightly. Blimey!

Construction:

T' Kit includes:-

  • 3 sheets o' balsa containin' pre cut wings etc
  • 2 triangular section leadin' edges
  • 2 triangular section body fillets
  • BT-20
  • Plastic nose cone
  • Coupler tube
  • Launch lug
  • Balsa blast deflector
  • 2 lengths o' elastic
  • Lead weight
  • Trimmin' putty
  • Self adhesive aluminium foil
  • Thrust rin'
  • 3 motor plugs
  • Mylar strip
  • 2 pins
  • Comprehensive 9-page instructions

T' first step is t' free t' win' parts from t' balsa sheets and assemble them. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! T' win' parts appear t' have been partially pre cut by some sort of router. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Blimey! There are just a few tabs on each component which require cuttin' to free t' part. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! I found it best t' do a "rough cut" first, me bucko, some way up the tab, t' free t' part. Then, me hearties, once free o' t' sheet I did a "close cut" t' remove t' remains o' t' tab. It’s best t' do this final cut from both sides o' t' part. Ahoy! Blimey! T' instructions indicate that either medium CA or light wood glue may be used for construction. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I wasn’t in any rush (waitin' for t' glue t' dry gave me t' opportunity t' write this review) so used EVO-STIK wood adhesive and "double glue joints". Aye aye! Blimey!

Wings:

I found t' win' assembly straight forward with t' exception o' addin' t' leadin' edges. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Although the positionin' o' these is quite clear in t' win' plan diagram, there’s another diagram that I just found confusing. Aye aye! I couldn’t figure out what it was tryin' t' show me, or even be sure what view it represented. Arrr! Suffice to say that if you assemble t' wings bottom side down, t' leadin' edges go flat side down too! T' wings must be assembled with a dihedral. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! I found this quite tricky and, arrr, me bucko, ya bilge rat, once dry, matey, had t' fill a small gap at t' aft end. Avast, me proud beauty!

Elevons:

T' next step is t' add t' elevons. Ahoy! Arrr! These are attached t' t' aft end of the wings usin' mylar hinges. Avast, me proud beauty! You have t' make slots in t' aft edge o' the main win' and t' forward edge o' t' elevon. Avast, me proud beauty! I thought this was goin' t' be a bit tricky, but as long as you keep t' cutlass horizontal with respect t' the wing/elevon, matey, it’s nay too bad. Well, blow me down! T' positionin' o' t' hinges seemed a bit odd, me hearties, so I made mine equidistant along t' elevon (which was a mistake, me bucko, the manufacturer informs me that t' unequal spacin' is intentional). Begad! T' hinges are attached by pushin' a pin through t' fins with t' mylar tabs in position. Then CA is wicked into t' resultin' hole. This hinge design is very clean and I like it a lot. Avast!


Fins & Strakes

T' fins are added t' t' elevons next, me bucko, me hearties, and this be where I had me first real trouble. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Either t' slots are too narrow, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, or t' balsa t' fins are cut from is too thick. Avast, me proud beauty! I fixed this by scorin' across t' fin at t' top o' the tab, and then carefully parin' away part o' t' tab thickness. Aye aye! T' under wing strakes had t' be modified in t' same way. Once t' fins and strakes are in place, t' elevons are attached t' t' win' with t' hinges, in t' same way as the hinges were attached t' t' elevons. Ahoy!

Ejection Vent

T' kit can be made into two slightly different versions, ya bilge rat, one for sport, t' other for competition. Avast! Well, blow me down! The difference is in t' arrangements made for t' ventin' o' unwanted ejection gases. Ya scallywag! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! In t' sport model t' gases are vented through a hatch in t' top of the body tube. Begad! There are also parts t' deflect t' gases and strengthen the body tube interior. Aye aye! For t' competition model, me bucko, me hearties, shiver me timbers, these parts are omitted and instead t' motor most be plugged forcin' t' ejection gases out o' t' motor nozzle. Blimey! I decided t' build t' sport model. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

For t' sport model t' next stage is t' cut out t' vent hatch. Blimey! Arrr! This is best done with a sharp knife. Begad! Blimey! A section must be left uncut t' provide a hinge. This hinge is reinforced by t' addition o' a self adhesive foil strip. Avast, me proud beauty! Enough of this foil is supplied t' add protection t' t' body tube just aft o' the vent. A cylindrical section o' balsa is glued into place inside o' t' body tube just forward o' t' vent t' deflect t' ejection gases through t' vent. Finally, shiver me timbers, a length o' thick cardboard tube is fitted inside t' body tube to strengthen it. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! This buts up t' t' balsa deflector. Arrr! T' aft end o' this strengthener acts as t' motor thrust ring. Begad! Ya scallywag! (For t' competition model, an ordinary thrust rin' is provided.)

Fuselage

Next t' body is attached t' the wings. Ya scallywag! Blimey! You need t' take care here as it’s all t' easy t' nay get t' tube properly aligned. Aye aye! Blimey! T' triangular body fillets complete t' main assembly. Begad! Blimey! These must be trimmed square at t' aft end and glued into position. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Blimey! Once dry the front end must be trimmed t' match t' leadin' edge win' extensions. Aye aye! Blimey! T' nose weight is added t' t' nose cone, matey, which is secured only with tape t' facilitate the addition o' more weight durin' trimming.

Mechanics

T' mechanism t' move t' elevons is installed next. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This comprises a pin pushed through t' part o' t' fins mounted on each elevon, me bucko, me bucko, and two length of elastic attached t' t' part o' t' fins mounted on t' wing. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' pins pushed through t' fins at 45° and secured usin' CA. Once dry t' head o' t' pins is clipped off. Blimey! Blimey! T' elastic is attached t' t' fins in t' pre-made indentations (you did assemble them on t' correct side, ya bilge rat, right?) and hooked onto t' points o' t' pins. Begad! Blimey! T' tension can be adjusted by stretchin' the elastic more or less before hookin' onto t' pin points. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! You don’t need much tension. Avast! Blimey! T' instructions specify that t' weight o' a spent C6 motor should be just capable o' lowerin' t' elevon on t' t' strake. Begad! Blimey!

T' way t' mechanism works is that, matey, at lift off, ya bilge rat, t' airflow forces the elevons into t' flat position. Avast, me proud beauty! Once in normal flight however, t' tension in the elastic is enough t' overcome t' airflow and raise t' elevons for gliding flight. Avast, me proud beauty!

Finishing:

It this point, ya bilge rat, t' instructions suggest that you might like t' radius the edges, but I think it's probably easier t' do this as you go along, and that's what I did. Blimey! Begad! Next, I gave all o' t' balsa areas a coat o' sandin' sealer, and then sanded smooth usin' progressively finer paper, shiver me timbers, until almost all o' the sealer was removed. Arrr! This may sound strange, but t' idea is t' fill t' grain in t' balsa, rather than add a nice shiny coating. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down!

Trimming:

T' instructions regardin' trimmin' are quite clear. Avast! There are two main parts t' it, shiver me timbers, t' elevon tensionin' covered previously, and sortin' out the balance for gliding. Ahoy! This is done by test throwin' t' glider and addin' small amounts o' clay weight t' t' wings t' correct for any roll or pitch. Blimey! My first attempt at trimming, at UKRA 2003, matey, led t' t' nosecone bein' pushed into the body tube. Well, blow me down! In retrospect, thar be too much breeze. Ahoy! T' small amount o' damage was easily repaired. Avast, me proud beauty!

Flight:

Flight #1
Location: Baildon Moor
Motor: B6
A perfect boost and translation t' horizontal flight. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Once flyin' horizontally, the glider made a 180° turn, shiver me timbers, matey, me bucko, then appeared t' roll over, me hearties, and slide sideways into what became a dive t' t' ground. Well, blow me down! T' front body tube be crimped but easily repaired. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! T' crimped sction o' tube be excised and replaced with a new section, matey, attached by means o' a short coupler.

Before t' next flight, matey, I spent a lot more time at IRW 2003 trimming. There was a gentle breeze and I got it so it would glide really well either with, arrr, or against t' breeze. Blimey!

Flight #2
Location: IRW 2003
Motor: B6
Once again, a great boost and translation. Again it made a turn, ya bilge rat, but this time much wider. Well, blow me down! There be no roll, ya bilge rat, but t' glider slowly pitched down and picked up speed. Blimey! Avast! Blimey! This be never corrected and it dived into t' ground. Amazingly, shiver me timbers, arrr, ya bilge rat, there was no damage at all. Avast! Arrr! Blimey!

Flight #3
Location: IRW 2003
Motor: C6
Another great boost, but t' flight was just a higher version o' flight #2. What did I expect? This time thar was a lot o' damage. Begad! T' body tube is folded up and t' wings are broken across t' span. Avast! It will be a big rebuild, arrr, which I haven't yet attempted. Well, blow me down!

I think t' problem with t' first flight be lack o' trimming, that led to it rollin' over and diving. For t' second and third flights, arrr, I wonder if I had the elevons tensioned correctly? T' tensionin' is meant t' be set such that the elevons are flat for t' boost, and pop up for glidin' flight. It might be that I didn't have quite enough tension. Well, blow me down! Therefore, matey, as t' glider pitched forwards, shiver me timbers, it picked up speed, me hearties, and t' increased wind speed forced t' elevons into t' horizontal position. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Once that happened it would never be able to correct its attitude. Well, matey, blow me down! I did follow t' directions for tensioning, usin' the spent motor on t' elevon, but maybe t' exact position is critical? I passed on me thoughts t' Orbital, matey, but disappointingly, I never got a response. Arrr!

Summary:

This is an excellent kit. It's nay exactly cheap, but t' quality o' the parts is second t' none, t' instructions are detailed and comprehensive, and even t' packagin' is first-rate. Blimey! I really enjoyed buildin' it. Avast! Begad! I must point out however that I can't recommend this kit for a beginner t' rocket gliders. Despite t' detailed direction, me hearties, me bucko, I never really had a successful flight. Aye aye! Aye aye! Since I've seen and read about many other successful flights o' VMX-2s, I have t' put that down t' me own inexperience with rocket gliders which is limited t' a couple o' flights o' an Estes Tomcat, arrr, and a few flights o' an "AstronMike" style saucer glider. I reckon that either t' trimming wasn't up t' snuff, or that I didn't get t' elevon tension correct. Ya scallywag! So in conclusion, matey, this is a great kit, me hearties, matey, but if you're a beginner, matey, practice your trimmin' on somethin' cheaper first.

Postscript:

This article be first published, in two parts, matey, in 10...9...8... Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! the newsletter o' t' United Kingdom Rocketry Association.

Betwixt publication o' t' first part o' this article and t' second, ya bilge rat, I was informed by Verney Montague that BSMA have put up a handsome Gold Medal t' be awarded t' t' first person t' break t' two minute barrier with a rocket powered Spaceplane. Ya scallywag! T' medal has actually been around for 2-3 years. Well, blow me down! Anyone know if it's been won yet?

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    Picture courtesy of Orbital Engineering Ltd     Brief: This is a 18mm boosted glider constructed almost entirely of high grade balsa for strength and reduced weight. Construction: Kit includes: (1) 18mm Estes type tube with plastic ogive nose cone (3) sheets of pre-cut balsa for wings and elevons (1) blast deflector/air-brake (optional) (1) ...

Flights

Comments:

avatar
S.M. (April 21, 2004)
Just to even out the above reviewers comments, with a little balsa building experience this model just about builds it's self! to cut the hinges, lay a steel rule flat against the edge of the wing and slide a scalpel blade in to the edge, no guessing ! Also the trimming isn't too difficult, like any boost glider you have to trim well. Mine's had minimal trimming ( a minute blob of clay under one wing to make it turn gently) and has flown at least a dozen times. Support the wing on take off and you'll get an even better boost. Parts are CNC cut and are extremely accurate? measure twice, cut once ! Thanks Steve Looking forward to my VMX 3!

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