Here's one of the weird cardstock shroud model from Centuri, the X-24 BUG. This one was introduced in the 1972 catalog. From the catalog description: "Now it's easy to assemble your own model of the manned re-entry vehicle that makes a weird sound and smoke trail as it climbs into the sky. It's ...
You can find the scanned cardstock parts at: http://www.spacemodeling.org/JimZ/centuri/ka-12.pdf The fins are on Page 6, the body shroud is on Page 7. Pages 6 and 7 are printed on 110 lb. card stock. On the first print of the shroud I tried the "fit to page" setting. It was a a little large with a ...
The body skins were printed on 110 lb. stock. I didn't have the original model anymore but I think the parts were printed on heavier stock. I had to beef them up. Inkjet printed cardstock will have to be sealed. A landing on dewey grass will smear the ink. I first sprayed the sheets with Krylon ...
The nose cone shoulder needed a better fit in the wider ST-7 tube. three strips of masking tape were placed on the shoulder. This left some exposed plastic for a better gluing area. I used the Beacon Fabri-Tac glue to glue the nose cone in place. The old Centuri plastic cone is no longer ...
The scored lines (lines to be folded) on the fins and canopy were scored before cutting out the pieces off the sheet. It's just easier to score them ahead of time, a larger page is more stable under a straightedge. I scored them using the rolled metal edge on the top of a single edge razor blade. ...
The instructions show pre-curling the shroud under a ruler or over a table edge. I've never got good results this way. I'll usually end up with a crease line in the shroud. I could form this one over the heel of my left hand. Even a shroud this large could be formed by rolling a dowel over the ...
I remember this step seemed wrong back in 1973! Why can't I remember the important things? I would think the tape strip has to go on the other side of the shroud, on the glue tab side. If applied as shown here it just gets in the way of gluing in the next step. After the shroud edges are ...
No glue yet! Fitting the bulkhead former is the hardest part of the build. You are tempted to push the former in so the shroud is touching all sides of the former. If you push too hard the sharp former sides will push out and distort the outside of the shroud. You'll see the interior bulkhead ...
I held the shroud up to a bright light and could the former was being bent and pushed in at an angle. The corrugated cardboard was a good "soft" bulkhead but was distorting under the pressure against the shroud wall. I wanted it to be straight. It'll need to be stiffened up slightly. I cut some ...
Frank Claunch sent me an email - Hi Chris, A little X-24 tidbit. Frank Thanks Frank, I actually got that one in the mail from Enerjet/Centuri way back when. I wonder if anybody other than Larry Brown (in the picture) would "sacrifice" a Saturn V just to deploy an X-24 off the top of ...
If you haven't scored the canopy, do so before trying to glue it together. A slip of paper was slid under the glue tab to keep the glue stick off the printed right side. Long tweezers were used to hod the tab down while the glue set up. It's easier to glue on the interior launch lug fin supports ...
A line of glue was placed around the top of the engine mount tube. Press the engine tube and former into the shroud until the sides form the cone into a soft triangle shape. Press in place for a friction fit then add glue fillets. Don't use a lot of glue, it can soften the card stock shroud and ...
Email from Frank Claunch, Built these over the last few days - Not only did Frank build them, he drew up the new skins! After these three X-24s were made, Frank made a few corrections to the art. The new, latest skins are posted on Y.O.R.F., CLICK HERE and scroll down to post #7.
TIP: Use white glue for all the outside surface parts! White glue dries clear, Titebond or Carpenter's Glue will show up as yellow on the finished model. Here's how the nose end turned out. The body tube wasn't flush, close enough for me. I did a dry fit of the canopy to double check the position ...
I remember my original X-24 Bug got a little banged up on the rear cone edge and fins. I cut some Scotch tape and stuck it over the bottom rear of the cone body. This adds no real weight and strengthened the open edge. The top of the wings and rudder also got an folded overlay of Scotch tape.
The instructions say to start with half the clay provided in the kit. Who knows how much clay was included in the kit? I started out with 1/8 oz. and added clay until I got a "glide" of about 10 to 15 feet. In the end there was .25 oz. of clay weight in the back. This is a tough one to test glide, ...
This one brought back a lot of memories. I was surprised how well the online scan printed up and turned into a pretty good build. The conical Estes nose cone worked well as a substitute for the Centuri original. I'm looking forward to the first flights and (hopefully) a decent glide. UPDATE: It ...
