This is another I wanted to build since first seeing it in the 1971 Centuri catalog. Definitely different, a combination of conical stability and card stock wedge fins. PDF Prints and Centuri instructions available from JimZs at: http://www.spacemodeling.org/JimZ/ka-10.htm For a great design ...
Because I used a single 9" long piece of ST-7 tubing and dropped the engine hook, you can skip Steps 1 - 5 in the Centuri instructions. You don't have to join two separate pieces of body tube. All the cardstock prints were done from the JimZ website on 110 lb. cardstock. To stiffen the fins and ...
Here's all three fins, lower air scoop and squared canopy. You are given two different canopies to pick from. The rounded canopy took a little extra effort to get right. As done before with shrouds, it was given a rounded contour by rolling a dowel in the heel of my hand. The gluing tab is tiny! ...
The bulkhead print was glued to a piece of framing mat material. TIP: You can pick up mat material scraps from a frame shop for next to nothing, sometimes free! It's strong and great for home made LPR centering rings. After drying, Cut out the center with a sharp #11 blade. I wrapped 220 grit ...
Sand the edge at an slight angle to match the inside wall of the body shroud cone. The angle in the picture is a little exxagerated for clarity. Try to match the angle of the finished cone. This might help get rid of a ridge that can be seen when the bulkhead is pressed into the cone. The bulkhead ...
Wash and thoroughly dry your hands before making the printed cone shroud. Any oil or dirt on your hands will transfer onto the printed surface. Step 13 of the Centuri instructions have you pull the large body shroud under a ruler or over a table edge. I've never gotten good results doing it either ...
When the edges are lined up from top to bottom, burnish down the tape on the inside. Here I'm using an engine casing stuck in a dowel to roll over the tape edge. White glue was set on one side on a single edge razor blade (the side facing up) and applied under the lifted edge. TIP: Never use a lot ...
Because we're using on continuous 9" length of ST-7 tubing, you con't be joining two separate pieces with a coupler shown in the instructions. With a file, the thrust ring (engine block, or whatever you want to call it) gets a notch for the Kevlar. I wouldn't use a Tri-Fold Mount in a tube this ...
Test fit the internal tube before gluing to the top of the cone. My tube fit was too tight! I didn't want it to swell up the joint and break the glue joint. I decided to cut away about 3/32" from the top of the cone. This makes the opening wider and made for a good fit of the tube. On this model, ...
NOTE: Doing an internal lug requires a long slot to be cut in the conical body. After the model was finished, I wished I had just glued the lug under a fin like the Centuri instructions showed. With the motor mount tube pressed flush with the top of the cone body, the launch rod is pushed forward ...
Slowly advance the bulkhead over the motor mount tube and launch lug. Try to keep it level as you get nearer to the cone sides. If you press it in crooked, you might not be able to pull it back and re-position it. When you get into the cone walls, you'll understand why I sanded a slight angle to ...
The fins and air scoop were harder to glue in place than I would have thought. The "Double-Glue" technique might help here. The first side of the fins glues on without too much problem. Here I'm using a sharpened dowel to set the tab down. Let the first tab dry thoroughly before trying to glue ...
After I thought the model was finished, I went back and checked the lug and rod slot. THERE WAS TOO MUCH LUG BINDING THROUGH THE FRONT SLOT! The slot had to be extended to 3" long! In the original kit, this is why the lug was glued to the outside of the cone body under a fin. Too many reviews talk ...
You'll need a hollow plastic nose cone for this build. Almost 1/2 oz. of clay nose weight will need to be added. That's a lot of washers to be screwed on if you were to use a balsa cone. Looking at the Centuri instructions, their plastic nose cone is almost filled to the end of the shoulder with ...
Once all the parts were collected and printing done, this was actually a fast build. The picture on the right shows the final rod slot under the nose. If I were to make another, I'd follow the Centuri instructions. they obviously did it for a reason, the same reason the X-24 Bug and Quest HL-20 ...
