This article describes how I made a custom nose cone from green floral foam and fiberglass. Begad! T' example shown here was 5in diameter, 7 1/8in tall with 5/8in shoulder.

Begin with green foam blocks o' t' sort that some people use t' make floral arrangements. Begad! This foam can be found at most hobby shops and other stores, and comes in a variety o' sizes. Begad! Glue together a foam block o' sufficient size, if necessary, usin' a very liberal layer o' yellow glue. Well, blow me down!

Next, you need a hole-drillin' bit. Aye aye! I have one that drills holes o' 2-inch diameter. Avast! T' bit looks like an inverted cup with saw-toothed rim, about an inch tall and two inches wide. Avast, me proud beauty! Drill in t' t' foam, in t' approximate center, t' t' depth o' t' bit, and withdraw. Ahoy! Use a hobby knife t' remove t' isolated foam material, me bucko, formin' a cylindrical hole in t' block. T' first photo shows t' foam block after this step. Aye aye!

Next, carefully wrap your bit in maskin' tape. Avast! and then epoxy it into t' hole. Now you can mount t' entire block in your power drill. Arrr! Carefully clamp t' drill in a vise, so that t' axis o' rotation is as vertical as possible. Well, blow me down! Use a C-clamp or other means t' keep t' drill trigger in t' ON position; use t' plug for on/off.

Usin' a file (and maybe a knife or saw), coarsly shape t' block. Do nay venture too close t' t' desired final pattern, but try t' make a shape that is nearly round.

CAUTION: T' next step is extremely messy and probably nay too healthy! Goggles are absolutely necessary, ya bilge rat, and a breathin' mask helps. Cover or remove anythin' precious within at least 15 feet o' t' work area. When I finished t' turning, me bucko, I was covered in a half-inch layer o' fluffy green foam residue (includin' me eyeballs, me ear canals, nostrils, arrr, etc) and me kids called me t' "green snowman". There are still drifts o' t' stuff in corners o' me garage after vacuuming!

Start t' drill spinning. Begad! Use 150-grit sandpaper t' shape t' nose cone as it spins. Work freehand. Start with a sandin' block and switch t' just fingers after t' foam is rounded. Begad! Use a light touch because it is very easy t' remove too much material. Ya scallywag! It is very handy t' have calipers t' gauge t' correct diameter, shiver me timbers, especially at t' base and for t' shoulder. Remove a little bit extra from t' shoulder, me bucko, because you need room for a layer o' paper/phenolic tubin' there.

Finish all t' shapin' in one session without removin' t' block from t' drill. If you remove it, me hearties, you run t' risk that it will be off kilter slightly when you remount it. Powerin' on/off is okay.

Congratulations, you have completed t' first part o' t' project! See t' photo o' me nose cone next t' t' body tube. Blimey! In this photo you can also see how t' drill bit was installed. Arrr! You can remove t' drill bit at any point hereafter, me hearties, but I found it useful t' retain it until t' last possible minute because it makes a convenient handle and mountin' point. Ahoy!

Next, shiver me timbers, we need t' harden t' nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm nay sure if this first step is necessary, but I began by paintin' t' entire surface with epoxy and lettin' it cure. This gave me a firmer surface t' work with. Ya scallywag! Next, lay down two layers o' 6oz fiberglass, me bucko, curin' betwixt layers. It can be very difficult t' get t' fiberglass t' lay smooth over such a curved surface. I used four leaves shaped like t' template shown here. Ahoy! (This template is only t' give t' idea; t' actual shape will depend on your nose cone.) For t' second layer, I staggered t' leaves by 45 degrees. Aye aye! A few small patches at t' very nose tip can help smooth t' top. Aye aye!

Next we construct t' shoulder. Begad! Use a scrap rin' o' body tubin' and cut out a sliver so t' rin' slips gently inside t' body tube when rejoined. Once t' rin' is re-sized appropriately, it should be epoxied directly t' t' foam shoulder. Arrr!

Now it is time for t' tedious smoothin' process. Well, blow me down! Mask off t' shoulder. Use wood filler, putty, ya bilge rat, Kilz, or your favorite filler t' fill t' surface o' t' nose cone until you are satisfied with t' finish. I find that paintin' t' surface with gray primer helps identify small blemishes that need further work.

T' next step is t' add nose weight (if you need any). Usin' t' drill, ya bilge rat, a knife, or sandpaper on a stick, fashion a crude hole all t' way up inside t' nose cone until you expose t' underside o' t' nose tip. Blimey! Make sure you have exposed t' fiberglass thar so you won't be gluin' t' foam! Drop in t' weights and epoxy permanently.

Now we cap t' nose base. Avast! Cut a plywood disk that will match t' *inside* diameter o' t' shoulder ring. Ahoy! Affix an eye bolt or other shock cord attachment device t' t' disk. Blimey! Now remove about 3/8 inch layer o' green foam across t' whole surface o' t' nose cone bottom. When you are finished, t' disk should fit snugly inside, layin' flat against t' foam. T' surface o' t' disk should be recessed about 1/8 inch inside t' nose cone shoulder ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' disk in position, me bucko, then make a strong epoxy fillet around t' recessed lip where t' disk meets t' interior o' t' shoulder ring. Ya scallywag! T' next photo shows t' result. Well, blow me down!

It was at this point that I accidentally dropped t' nose cone onto t' tiled kitchen floor. I can report that thar was no damage t' either t' cone or t' floor. Blimey!

Finally, paint t' cone. I chose a Krylon blue with Walmart clear over t' top.

I cannot tell you that this job was fast or easy. Ya scallywag! But it be an incredible learnin' experience and you will feel a real sense o' accomplishment when you have finished. T' methods can be adapted t' make some very unusually shapes. I'm sure that people will ask where you "bought" such an incredible nose cone.