LOC/Precision V2 (5.38")

LOC/Precision - V2 (5.38") {Kit}

Contributed by Kent Newman

Manufacturer: LOC/Precision

 

Pic Show anyone t' shape o' a V-2 and they will immediately recognize a real rocket! That classic outline has been t' love o' some people t' t' extent that they establish websites dedicated totally t' t' V-2. Ahoy! Begad! These sites cover every possible topic related t' t' "vengeance" weapon. Avast! Ya scallywag! Its popularity continues in sport rocketry today with a number o' companies producin' V-2 kits. Well, blow me down! Public Enemy, matey, Maximum Thrust and LOC/Precision are several that come t' mind. Arrr! Two o' t' more popular kits come from LOC/Precision in 5.38" and 7.67" versions.

Bein' a fan o' sport-scale rockets, I chose t' build t' 5.38" version with a 38mm motor mount. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I be originally lookin' for a neat-lookin' rocket that I could launch with relatively little prep work. You know, insert t' motor and fly. Aye aye! Blimey! I didn' t want t' spend an hour just gettin' it ready t' fly on electronics with multiple black powder charges. Ahoy! Blimey! But more on that later.

Make it durable. With a big 5.38" body tube and big plywood fins, matey, I was concerned about durability o' t' rocket over time. Arrr! So, me bucko, t' first step was t' apply a layer o' 1.7oz Keelhaul®©™ and 6 oz fiberglass t' t' body tube. Begad! T' LOC BT is non-phenolic cardboard so it really soaked up t' epoxy. Avast! I also coated t' top 4 inches o' t' inside o' t' BT with West Systems. Ahoy! Aye aye! I did that for two reasons: one, t' NC fit was a bit sloppy and I wanted t' take up some o' t' slack, and, ya bilge rat, two, matey, I wanted t' limit t' deterioration o' t' cardboard near t' NC when t' wet conditions o' Monroe caused t' layers o' t' cardboard tube t' unravel.

I sanded t' fins usin' 100 and 150 grit t' smooth t' flat surfaces and t' round t' leadin' and parallel edges. I vacuum bagged t' fins with 1.7oz Keelhaul®©™ wrapped over t' leadin' edge and then applied two layers o' six oz 'glass sandwichin' each fin. Ya scallywag! Although I used a vacuum, a hand layup would be fine for this rocket. Ya scallywag! I just like t' keep me hand in, I suppose.

LOC' s directions are very good for assemblin' t' rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! I assembled t' fincan per t' instructions with t' exception o' addin' an AeroPack 38mm motor retainer t' t' MMT. Aye aye! Although t' retainer is pricey, it is perfect for this application where t' motor mount extends beyond t' bottom centerin' ring. Begad! And t' retainers are really, really cool!

From here, me bucko, I made a few changes.

Those stubborn plastic nosecones. T' first change concerns t' tenaciousness o' molded nosecones in wantin' t' shed paint. Ya scallywag! It seems no matter what one does, it' s difficult t' get paint t' stick t' t' slick plastic. Well, boys and girls, me bucko, try what I do. I use 100 grit sandpaper t' rough up t' whole NC. Ahoy! Yes, shiver me timbers, that' s right. Blimey! Rough it up. Scrub it with soap and water and let it dry. Avast! Aye aye! There will be a lot o' fuzzies but paint will stick when t' preparation is finished. After t' first sanding, go back and fill t' mold seams and whatever other imperfections that might exist. Arrr! Let t' filler dry and sand lightly with 100 grit. Avast! Avast! Use gray Plasti-Kote Spot Filler & Primer for a first coat t' identify t' big imperfections (gray primer makes imperfections easier t' see than white primer). Blimey! Wet sand with 320 grit. Blimey! Ahoy! Fill again as necessary. Ahoy! Prime again with Kilz white primer (white is good t' use now as a base for t' paint). Blimey! Arrr! Use a couple or three light coats o' this stuff; it comes out very heavy. Avast, me proud beauty! Let dry and wet sand again with 320 grit. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I' d be surprised if you see any fuzzies now. Prime again if needed and/or wet sand with 400 and you' re ready t' paint. Try it.

NC Shock Cord Attachment. T' NC has a big extrusion on it t' be used for securin' an eyebolt. Avast, me proud beauty! It certainly would work but there' s an alternative. Blimey! T' V-2 requires nose weight due t' t' center o' pressure those fins create on a short rocket body. Avast, me proud beauty! T' instructions suggest drillin' a 5/8" hole in t' side o' t' base o' t' nosecone t' be used t' pour an epoxy/steel shot mixture into t' nosecone. I decided nay t' do that. Ahoy! I drilled out t' plastic extrusion with a 3/4" wood spade bit. Ahoy! I like t' use a toggle bolt t' hold onto a 1/4" eyebolt for fastenin' t' shockcord t' t' NC. Begad! Plus it adds weight t' t' nose in a rocket where nose weight is critical.

Addin' Noseweight. T' kit comes with 8 ounces o' steel shot t' be inserted with epoxy into t' nosecone. Blimey! A finishin' nail is t' be used as a retention device for t' steel shot/epoxy mixture by drillin' a hole crosswise through t' tip o' t' NC and inserting. Arrr! T' steel shot/epoxy is then poured over this nail and holds everythin' in place. Avast, me proud beauty! T' ends o' t' nail are then filed or ground down t' fit t' contour o' t' nosecone. Begad! Blimey! LOC recommends flyin' t' V-2 on nothin' larger than an I-284 and t' weight is calculated accordingly. Ahoy! Arrr! But me construction isn't stock. Ahoy! I' e added epoxy and fiberglass weight. Blimey! Nay a lot o' weight but it should be considered. Avast, me proud beauty! I've also added a motor retainer. Light, t' be sure, but still t' be considered. Arrr! Aye aye! With t' rocket built and primed, I used Rocksim t' determine t' Barrowman and Rocksim centers o' pressure. Begad! There was a big difference in these calculations but I knew t' real Cp was somewhere about 2" ahead o' t' fins. Begad! Blimey! I then took t' biggest motor (J350) that I thought that I would fly and taped it t' t' aft o' t' rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! I put t' casin' into t' motor tube and fastened t' retainer. Aye aye! Begad! I installed t' parachute I'm goin' t' use (60" Top flight after weighin' t' V-2 ), matey, 20' o' 9/16" military spec nylon tubing, Nomex® shields and quicklinks. Avast, me proud beauty! I then taped t' 8 ounces o' steel shot t' t' tip o' t' nosecone. Begad! Findin' t' center o' gravity, I added another 6 ounces (overkill) o' steel shot after repeated measurements designed t' move t' Cg farther away from t' Cp. Blimey! I wanted 1.0+ calibers for safety and feel I'm pretty close t' that.

Once I felt comfortable with t' weight, shiver me timbers, matey, I mixed t' epoxy/steel shot and poured it into t' nosecone and let it cure.

"I Don Wan No Stinkin' Launch Lugs!" Lose t' 1/2" cardboard launch lug and put on a couple o' Black Sky (or similar) Delrin rail guides. Begad! Begad! Once you use them, you'll never go back. Begad! They attach nicely t' t' boattail/body tube overlap and t' a spot 5" down from t' top o' t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Epoxy a 1/2" square piece o' body tube at t' 5" mark on t' inside o' t' BT t' give t' rail guide screw somethin' t' bite on.

Painting. V-2 paint schemes are widely varied. Ya scallywag! There is a paint scheme for everyone, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' be sure. One o' me favorites be t' dark yellow and black o' V-2 No. Ya scallywag! 2 flown at White Sands, New Mexico in 1946. Blimey! I got t' paintin' detail from Peter Always's Rockets o' t' World, shiver me timbers, 3rd Edition. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! If you don't have this book, put it on t' 'ol birthday or Christmas wish list. It's a necessity.

After preppin' t' rocket for paintin' as described with t' nosecone, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I found Plasti-Kote "School Bus Yellow", arrr, matey, "Gloss Black" and "Silver" for paintin' t' rocket. Arrr! Strictly on an opinion basis, I think P-K paints are a bit more durable than Krylon. Avast! Can't substantiate it, but I think so. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Use whatever you' re comfortable with, however, matey, arrr, but you may want t' try P-K paints.

Other than spendin' an enormous amount o' time (and blue detail tape) tapin' t' rocket for t' paint scheme, me hearties, t' paintin' wasn't bad at all. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! AND! I did nay pull any paint away from t' nosecone when I pulled t' maskin' off. What could be better than that?

And One Final Thing. Remember I be talkin' about buildin' a rocket that would be easy t' prep and launch? Well, me bucko, I've back-tracked a bit. Begad! I made provision t' put in a 38mm tube that will accommodate a BlackSky AltAcc accelerometer. Blimey! Begad! This piece o' electronics screw mounts t' t' side o' t' airframe and is armed by turnin' an armin' screw. Aye aye! It won't be used for dual deployment; it will just fire t' main at apogee. I don't know if I'll use it, shiver me timbers, but just in case.... Begad! Creature o' habit, I guess.

All in all, me hearties, shiver me timbers, a great rocket kit and somethin' different for me. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Don't expect a lot o' altitude on this model, though. Arrr! 1250' on an I357; 1500' on an I211; 1900' on an I300; 2700' on an I435 (if I dare). Begad! Avast! But those altitudes are plenty for a short wide-bodied rocket with a parachute at apogee. Ya scallywag! Begad! Lift-offs should be great.

Pic With 55,000 lbs o' thrust generated from a hydrogen peroxide-methanol motor, arrr, t' real rocket traveled at over 4400 ft/second. Begad! It was first fired operationally by t' Germans with a 1 ton warhead on September 6, 1944, aimed at Paris. Aye aye! Begad! After two firings on t' 6th, me hearties, t' target was switched t' London on September 7th.

T' reality o' t' V-2 be as t' progenitor o' t' space race betwixt t' U.S. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! and t' U.S.S.R. Begad! T' United States managed t' ship parts for 100 V-2s and most o' t' Peenemunde scientists out o' post-WWII Germany while t' U.S.S.R. Avast! Blimey! captured t' production facilities and most o' t' missle technicians. Aye aye! Arrr! Blimey! What each country acquired be a rocket test bed capable o' reachin' an altitude o' 52 miles with a range o' 225 miles. Avast! Blimey! T' V-2 had a throw weight o' about 2,000 lbs which amounted t' a lot o' scientific instruments. T' United States fired some 70 V-2s betwixt 1946 and 1955. From Rockets o' t' World by Peter Alway.

Other Reviews
  • LOC/Precision V2 (5.38") By John Coker

    Loc/Precision just came out with a V2 kit in two sizes. I bought the smaller one at the April LUNAR launch. Apparently, I got one of the first few produced.  I like sport-scale rockets and hadn't built anything like a V2 before, so this was great timing.  This rocket flew for the first time on an I357, although I had my first burn-by of the Aerotech delay sleeve. The ejection ...

Flights

Comments:

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J.T. (September 19, 2001)
I over built my kit to fly on 38mm J motors: heavy epoxy fillets inside and out, forged I-bolts in top center ring and nose cone, added lead weight to nose to get same balance point w/J570 as original kit had w/I211,25ft. of 9/16 tube nylon, fill nose w/NHP expanding foam, zippered on an I211M that blew nose cone at motor burn out. Repaired w/coupler and new section of body tube, extending it 4.5" also foamed boat tail inside. Have launched on I211M,J350L,J420 Redline w/long delay is a spectacular flight. has had 10 flights mostly J-motors. the rocket weight 9.4lbs.ready to fly w/J350. w/careful const. and minor mods this is a very fun kit to fly. Always toss out the shock cord and never use the nose cone shock cord mounts on the Loc kits THEY WILL FAIL just a matter of when trust me on this. Use the I-bolt if possible w/nut and washer w/epoxy. tricky but I do it and never had one separate.

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