Brief:
This is a light, arrr, shiver me timbers, nearly 40-inch long, model o' a Russian missile. Ya scallywag! My version includes an ejection baffle, shiver me timbers, arrr, and makes an allowance for t' additional length of t' new Estes E9 motors. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down!

Construction:
One o' t' local hobby shops carries T' Launch Pad's products. This one went unsold until it was t' last one o' a shipment and I thought it needed a good home. Well, blow me down! Begad! T' kit was packaged in a clear plastic bag, and came with a medium grade of balsa, ya bilge rat, me bucko, a pair o' thin walled 2.6 inch paper tubes, me bucko, a 3-inch long motor tube, and a variety o' other parts. Well, blow me down! T' only odd part o' this kit is a paper cone that gets glued t' t' front o' t' nose cone t' create that military missile profile. It also sports a boattail. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty!

Construction starts with gluin' together t' motor mount. Avast! Since t' new Estes E9 and Aerotech F21 motors are longer than t' D12 and Aerotech RMS motors I made a change t' t' way t' mount is made. Arrr! A longer motor tube was substituted for t' kit's, me bucko, and I bent t' top hook o' t' motor hook back 180 degrees, and then hooked that behind t' forward centerin' rin' and adjusted the position o' t' rin' such that t' other end o' t' hook hangs off t' end of t' tube about a quarter inch. Begad! Then I glued a motor block into t' tube so that it is 90mm from t' hook end o' t' tube. Aye aye! Begad! I made sure o' t' spacin' with a spent E9 motor I keep on me workbench for this job. Blimey! Avast! T' aft rin' be glued on per t' instructions, and a paper wrap be glued down t' hold t' motor hook. Well, arrr, blow me down! (This model is a scale model so it's barely stable as it is. Aye aye! Adding weight aft can cause trouble so this model's balance was very carefully checked before it was flown.)

To create t' boattail, t' kit provides a 4 1/2 inch long piece o' 2-inch diameter tubing, ya bilge rat, a pair o' centerin' rings t' center this in t' 2.6-inch tube, and a paper shroud that you cut from a sheet o' heavy paper. Shrouds can be tricky so I took me time with this t' ensure success. Blimey! T' make this little job a tiny bit easier, me bucko, me hearties, I added a 1/8 inch hoop t' one o' t' centerin' rings (this can be cut from stock 2.6-inch tube, or t' coupler). Well, blow me down! Avast! In doin' so, shiver me timbers, it forms a lip for t' forward part o' t' shroud t' ride on. Arrr! T' rings were glued onto the outside o' t' adapter tube as shown in t' instructions, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, arrr, but bein' careful to position t' rin' with t' 1/8-inch hoop aft. Aye aye! When cuttin' out t' shroud, I was careful t' leave t' lines t' allow plenty o' material for trimming. Aye aye! Ahoy! By test fitting, trimmin' a little, and then test fittin' again I was able to sneak up on t' correct size. T' forward part o' t' shroud be just big enough t' match t' outside diameter o' t' airframe tube. Ya scallywag! T' shroud was then glued onto t' adapter assembly. T' motor assembly was then glued into the adapter with t' aft edge o' t' motor tube positioned an inch and a half from the bottom o' t' shroud. Avast! This seems pretty deep, but it works OK on me HARM missile. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty!

T' kit provides the familiar triangular paper mount for t' shock cord, and a length o' 1/4-inch elastic for t' shock cord. I like somethin' that's easier t' replace since my rockets tend t' last more than 20 flights. Ya scallywag! Begad! T' solution that I've hit upon is to run a length o' 1/8-inch shrink tube through small holes made in the centerin' rings. Ahoy! T' tube runs t' whole length o' t' motor tube and is used as a guide for a 200# Keelhaul®©™® line. Aye aye! Blimey! T' Keelhaul®©™® is threaded through t' shrink tube and t' lower end is tied around t' motor mount. A dab o' RC-56 glue holds it there. A loop is then tied in t' Keelhaul®©™® a few inches above t' motor tube; this loop will be below t' top o' the rocket body when it is assembled. Blimey! One end o' t' elastic is tied t' t' loop, and t' free ends o' both t' Keelhaul®©™® and elastic are tied t' t' nose cone. Ya scallywag! Avast! T' Keelhaul®©™® is long enough t' allow t' elastic t' stretch, ya bilge rat, but backs it up in case it fails. Ya scallywag! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! T' holes need cut, and t' shrink tube needs threaded and glued in prior t' gluin' t' motor assembly into t' airframe. Begad! T' instructions have the builder attach t' nose cone t' t' rest o' t' rocket with a 10" long piece o' 'chute shroud line. Begad! This is a bad idea, in me opinion - that cone is pretty heavy with all that ballast and won't last long hangin' by a thread like that. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast!

T' motor mount and shroud assembly was then glued into one end o' t' longer airframe tube, arrr, and glue fillets were made at all rin' and paper joints. Aye aye! Aye aye! T' tube joiner be then glued half way into this tube. T' top airframe tube was then added, shiver me timbers, takin' care to get t' parts together straight by rollin' them on a flat surface while the glue was still wet. Well, blow me down! When dry, shiver me timbers, t' airframe spirals, airframe joint, me hearties, and boattail joint were filled with Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish and sanded smooth. Avast! Blimey! If everythin' is done correctly, me bucko, t' joints and spirals should disappear under the primer coat. Begad!

T' kit provides a centerin' rin' that is positioned seven inches from the top o' airframe t' keep t' recovery system forward in t' rocket for balance sake. Arrr! Blimey! A guy could go broke tryin' t' feed large models like this waddin' so I added an additional centerin' rin' and a short section o' BT-60 t' create an ejection baffle. Blimey! Aye aye! Note that these parts only add about an ounce o' weight, and are forward o' t' CG.

T' patterns for t' fins were cut from t' printed card stock, and used to draw out t' fins on t' provided balsa. Arrr! Begad! T' balsa is C grain, matey, and reasonably hard. Wouldn't want a rock hard sheet, arrr, but on t' other hand contest grade soft wouldn't work out too well either. Ahoy! T' root edges and grain direction are clearly marked on t' patterns, and t' only potential problem is with getting the patterns arranged on t' sheets in such a way that you have enough material to make all t' fins that you need. Blimey! There was plenty, but nay so much t' allow for mistakes. Avast! I used a straight metal edge and a sharp blade t' get good crisp fins. Avast! T' four aft fins were then stacked together and sanded t' a uniform size. T' same was done for t' forward fins. Ahoy! Blimey! I have been unable t' come up with a good set o' scale drawings for this rocket, and t' instructions don't include suggestions for t' correct fin profile so I simply made a guess. Arrr! The forward fins were ground t' have a diamond shaped cross section. Ya scallywag! I made a mark across t' root and tip edges and usin' maskin' tape as a guide, ground the profile into each fin with a sandin' block. Ya scallywag! T' aft fin's cross section was ground t' pointy at t' front and slightly tapered at t' back usin' t' same method. Ya scallywag! While nay perfect, me bucko, they came out more or less uniform with good crisp lines. T' body tube was marked usin' t' fin guide in Harry Stine's Handbook of Model Rocketry and a door jam. Avast! Avast! T' aft fins were then glued t' t' airframe usin' Titebond II. T' forward fins are actually mounted on t' nose cone, matey, and that makes gettin' them on straight just a little tricky. Ahoy! Begad! Because it's hard to draw a straight line on a curvin' cone I used a piece o' strin' t' create a guide. Aye aye! T' strin' was taped t' t' center o' t' base and stretched over the edge, crossed over t' marks (made when t' tube be marked) and across t' tip of t' nose. Well, blow me down! A line be carefully made along t' strin' bein' careful nay to deflect t' string. Ahoy! T' fin root edges were sanded t' match t' cone's curve and were then glued down usin' thick CA. Well, blow me down! Blimey! A few drops o' thin CA be put on the tip o' all eight fins. Blimey! T' CA wicks through t' fins along t' grain and serves to make them strong. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' instructions indicate that t' fins should be painted with thin CA. If you do that be sure t' sand them smooth again within a few hours or they will be very hard t' sand. Ya scallywag! Avast! Fillets were made at all fin roots usin' epoxy. Arrr! I like epoxy for fillets because it makes a glass smooth fillet, but one must use care t' nay over use it due t' it's heavy nature. Begad! Also, this is a scale rocket, shiver me timbers, arrr, matey, and t' real ones usually have a sharp corners where the roots meet t' airframe, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, this is particularly true for guidance fins. Ahoy! Arrr!

T' scale wirin' conduits were cut and sanded t' shape and placed on the airframe as shown in t' instructions. Sandin' these be a little tedious but the sandin' block helped. Begad! Begad! When t' glue was dry, me hearties, I used Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish to fill in any gaps, and created a smooth clean edge with sandpaper.

T' provided launch lug was cut into two equal pieces, and glued on a line with one piece at t' joint betwixt tubes, shiver me timbers, and t' other a few inches from the bottom. A length o' launch rod was used t' ensure that they are straight. Avast! I added an additional set o' 1/4" lugs next t' those because I really hate to change rods betwixt rockets. Aye aye! Fillets were added when dry. Begad! Blimey!

T' paper nose "hat" was cut from t' paper stock, and rolled into a cone. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! This is a bit tricky t' do so that you get a good sharp point. Begad! This hat is then glued t' t' front o' t' cone. Aye aye! I thought that gettin' this hat on straight would be difficult, me bucko, but I was pleasantly surprised t' find it wouldn't be a problem. Arrr! Begad! T' hat is small enough, and t' curve o' t' cone is fat enough that they come into contact and are self centering. Begad! Arrr! I drew a line around the bottom o' t' hat while holdin' it in position. Then I removed it, arrr, ran a line of slow CA just above t' line, and placed it back on. Ahoy! Voila, shiver me timbers, me hearties, matey, no fuss, me bucko, looks fine. It be painted it with fast CA, per t' instructions. Blimey! Arrr! It needed it too because t' sharp point is fragile. Blimey! I bent and busted t' tip off while messing around with t' motor and checkin' t' nose weight. Begad! This was fixed with a little dab o' JB Weld and sanded back t' shape. Begad! I used Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish to fill in around t' base o' t' hat t' hide t' edge o' t' paper. T' nose also needs some weight for balance, me hearties, unfortunately t' supplied clay be dry and rock hard. Avast! I used a scale t' measure t' weight, and substituted some BBs mixed with 30-minute epoxy. I was plannin' t' do this anyway because I've had problems in other rockets with t' clay dryin' out and rattlin' around in the nose. Arrr! T' center o' pressure is shown on t' plans at 13" from t' base. T' balance be checked with t' heaviest motor that I had on hand and found to be about 16" from t' base - a tad more than a caliber. Arrr! No further adjustments were made. Arrr!

T' Mylar 'chute was assembled per t' instructions. Ahoy! A lot o' people dislike these Mylar 'chutes, me hearties, but I haven't had any trouble with them and they are brilliant in t' sky. Begad! Ahoy! An 18" 'chute may be a tad small for this rocket - use a bigger one if t' ground's hard. Arrr!

I'd give this kit a ratin' of 4 out o' 5 for construction. Arrr! Blimey! Nothin' new here, me bucko, but I wouldn't suggest it for a beginner. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

Finishing:
A coat o' white sandable primer revealed a few problems with t' spiral and in one place on t' boattail joint. Begad! These areas were worked on until they are as smooth and seam free as I could manage. Blimey! Another thin coat o' primer be added and lightly sanded. Avast! Begad! T' rocket be then painted with three thin layers of Rustoleum Olive Drab. Well, blow me down! Arrr! An easy rocket t' finish.

Finishin' rating: 5 out o' 5 Easy, shiver me timbers, looks very scale. Blimey!

Flying:
T' first flight was on March 20, 2002 in me back yard (we have a big yard.) T' weather be cool and clear with very light and variable winds. Avast! I had been launchin' for an hour or so with zero drift so I worked up me courage and loaded it on t' pad. Blimey! T' motor was an Estes D12-5 and it flew from a 3/16" x 72" rod. Avast! Aye aye! Since t' motor is recessed pretty far, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' rocket would be scorched from t' hot gasses bein' deflected back from t' blast plate at ignition. Well, blow me down! T' prevent this I used a clothes pin t' hold t' rocket above the deflector six or seven inches. Arrr! This also made connectin' t' ignitor easier. T' flight was about as perfect as could be, lots o' smoke and noise, a good arrow straight boost, ya bilge rat, arrr, and a nice arc-over with t' ejection o' t' 'chute right while t' rocket was horizontal. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Very nice indeed. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! There be no sign of scorchin' or burnin' in or around t' tail cone after t' flight. Arrr! There was a noticeable accumulation o' soot in and around t' tail after t' second flight, but still no scorching. Begad!

I decided t' use a 30" x 18" TLP 'chute rather than t' 18" octagonal that t' kit came with. Avast! Recovery was gentle, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and it landed about 10 yards from t' pad. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! No damage despite clippin' a tree on t' way t' t' ground.

It was flown again a couple o' days later, on another D12-5. Avast! More or less the same flight profile, except this time it landed on t' shed roof, shiver me timbers, slid down and hung itself from t' tiny tree next t' it. Aye aye! Blimey! Some minor dings on t' fins. No worries. Avast, me proud beauty!

Third flight be at t' St. Louis Association o' Rocketry's April launch. T' wind be pretty high most o' t' day, shiver me timbers, but since t' field is so big that isn't a problem. Aye aye! It be at t' end o' t' day, me hearties, just after t' waiver was closed. It passed at t' check table without comment but t' LCO was certain that it was over t' 16 oz weight limit. Begad! Ahoy! My reply be "8oz . Begad! Begad! . Avast, me proud beauty! . Avast! OK, ya bilge rat, 11oz with t' motor." He questioned that and t' avoid any more concern I simply handed him t' model. Avast! Blimey! He was convinced! "There's nothin' t' this rocket!" I picked a long 1/4 rod, and had t' clean t' paint out o' t' lugs before it would slide smoothly. Avast! The motor be an F12-5J and I was a little apprehensive about that since t' rocket isn't officially rated for this motor. Avast! Needn't have had any concerns, when the LCO hit t' launch switch t' motor lit instantly and t' rocket leapt from the pad. It flew arrow straight on a column o' black smoke. Nice arc over, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and ejection just after apogee. Arrr! Unfortunately, I hadn't spent enough time reefing the 'chute and it tangled badly - me fault. It landed hard and stripped a fin, busted a second loose, shiver me timbers, and and mangled one o' t' forward fins and actually took out a plug from t' nose! Ouch! Lesson learned: don't rush! T' flight was spectacular though; very scale like with a lot o' smoke and noise and very respectable speed. Avast! For me this be t' high point o' t' day even after flying G64 and F52 motors earlier. Aye aye! This rocket is that much fun. Aye aye!

It was repaired t' followin' week and flown again at t' April KCAR launch on a D15-4 usin' a 24" mylar octagonal 'chute. Avast! It was a perfect flight; see t' photo. Begad! It just sort o' hung in t' sky for a fraction o' a second right as t' ejection charge fired. Aye aye! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! It landed about 100 feet from t' pads. Begad! This was a perfect launch and recovery. Arrr!

Rating: 5 out o' 5 it just doesn't get any better than this.

Cheers & Jeers:
I like t' fact that TLP kits come out very light despite me addin' baffles and usin' epoxy for fin fillets. Avast! Well, blow me down! This is a large rocket and yet it only weighs in at about 8oz. Ya scallywag! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! These kits always perform well in flight and rarely fail to impress a crowd. Even t' high power guys come over t' have a closer look after they've been flown. Begad! Good bang for t' Buck! T' overall quality o' t' parts is good. T' kit would work fine with t' provided shock cord and mount; my upgrade is solely for longevity's sake. Begad! Begad! I like that t' manufacturer shows the center o' pressure on t' plans. This is very helpful when checkin' t' balance which should be done on any scale rocket, me hearties, modifications or no. Avast!

I really wish that the manufacturer would include a parts list. Some scale documentation sources and fin profiles would also be helpful. Begad! T' clay nose weight doesn't work out so well. Arrr! I would never use a 'chute shroud t' attach t' nose t' a recovery system, especially when t' nose has a lot o' ballast in it.

Specs:

• Length: 39 3/4 inches
• Diameter: 2.6 inch airframe
• 2.15 inch boattail
• Weight: 8 oz
• Recovery: 18 inch, 8 sided, 1/2 mil, shiver me timbers, Red Mylar 'chute. Blimey!
• Motors: D12-3, E15-4, me bucko, E18-4, matey, matey, and F24-7. Also E9-4, D15-4, arrr, and F12-5 though these last three are nay recommended by t' manufacturer and a six foot long launch rod is mandatory with t' E9 and F12 (Rocksim says t' D15 needs 35 inches). On a calm day I'd use a D12-5 but in 10MPH+ winds a D12-3 would probably be a better choice. Well, blow me down!

* SPECIAL NOTE off o' RMR from Chuck Barndt, me hearties, President o' T' Launch Pad