Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Published: | 2010-11-13 |
Manufacturer: | The Launch Pad |
Brief: A four-finned, single staged simple scale model o' a military unguided artillery rocket.
Construction:All t' parts are there, shiver me timbers, with t' balsa fins die cut.T' nose cone is hollow plastic and t' body tube is spiral wound paper as be t' 1/8 inch launch lug. Well, matey, blow me down! T' chute is an interestin' metallic blue mylar, me bucko, 18 inches in diameter, and a flat octagonal shape. Aye aye! T' shroud lines are thin but strong black threadlike cord, possibly Keelhaul®©™ and they are attached t' t' chute usin' one side adhesive reinforcement paper donuts. T' shock cord is 1/4 inch wide white flat elastic, 3 feet long. Ahoy! Three centerin' rings are supplied and are layered cardboard. Avast! Ahoy! Two are meant t' center t' 6-inch paper 24mm motor tube and t' other is meant t' hold t' shock cord, shiver me timbers, as will be detailed. Avast, me proud beauty! An engine hook is supplied t' retain t' motor.
Finishing:Buildin' was easy, me bucko, matey, and t' instructions were straightforward and easy t' follow with pictures. But thar were no decals, me hearties, so I followed t' picture o' t' finished product and made t' red stripin' with Monokote and painted t' body cream white and t' very tip o' t' nose cone black. It looks fairly sharp, ya bilge rat, but I'll admit that me skills at cuttin' straight lines leaves much t' be desired. But it's better than tryin' t' paint a straight line.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight: T' model comes with t' recommendation t' use Estes 24mm D engines and t' Aerotech E30. Ahoy! Aye aye! But as t' model has balsa fins, arrr, I'm nay comfortable usin' t' E30. Ya scallywag! Plywood would seem better t' me. Aye aye! Plywood would seem better t' me. Blimey! Blimey! I may modify t' model by glassin' t' balsa fins for strength and see if that makes it strong enough. Blimey! Begad! With t' centerin' rin' that is used t' tie t' shock cord to, at 6 inches into t' tube, it has been suggested that waddin' isn't needed, matey, arrr, as t' chute can rest atop t' rin' and nay be burnt. But I put in 3 sheets o' paper waddin' anyway, as mylar does burn. Ahoy! T' engine hook plus an engine block retains t' motor in both directions. Two flights have occurred usin' a D12-5 by Estes, and both times it flew nice and straight with a pretty inflation o' t' attractive chute. Begad! I caught it once.
Recovery:T' recovery was just right. Ya scallywag! No damage t' t' rocket occurred and t' chute is unscorched.
Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5
Summary:Simple t' make and fly. Ya scallywag! Simple t' make and fly. Arrr! Really pretty parachute. But it might be better with thin plywood fins for higher power use. If anyone has flown it successfully as is with an E30, ya bilge rat, matey, then I'm just neurotic about strength.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
I was not impressed with this kit. When I received it, the balsa sheet was snapped in half, so I replaced the fins/balsa with basswood. I never liked the mylar parachute. It's been my experience that they don't open up as well, although other people may have had different experiences. It wouldn't have taken more than a sentence to mention where the 3/16 launch lug should be positioned instead of saying it's up to the experience of the builder. I found the launch lug itself to be, well, inadequate. I replaced it with an Estes Launch lug that was more substantial. I thought the motor mount was too far up inside the body tube and would make it more difficult attaching the ignition wire clips when the rocket is on the launch rod. I also think there is a good chance of the motor exhaust causing heat damage to the body tube since the motor mount is so far inside. I modified the rocket in the following ways: Gluing the motor mount tube flush with the end of the body tube to gain access to the motor igniter leads and to avoid exhaust heat problems, installing a baffle to avoid putting 12 to 15 sheets of wadding inside the tube - with the baffle I use about 2 or 3 just in case (the instructions say the ring inside the body tube that keeps the parachute in the top section is not to be counted on as a baffle), Using basswood for the fin material instead of balsa, and using a nylon parachute to replace the mylar one supplied with the kit. I know it's a little heavier with the modifications, but it flies well anyway. After I built it I liked it, and will continue to fly it, but I expected better. I could buy other kits from this manufacturer in the future, but now I know what to expect from the kit right out of the bag.
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T.E. (July 1, 2000)