As me build team and I keep growin' toward larger and larger projects, matey, one o' t' problems that we have had t' overcome be t' unavailability o' many o' t' different styles o' cones that we want t' use. Our project for Plaster Blaster last year was a 6.44x upscale o' t' classic Estes Starfighter combo, t' Torellian Invader and t' Orion Starfighter.

T' original kits used PNC-50 cones that we needed t' upscale t' match up with a 6.28" diameter tube. T' do this we have developed a technique for makin' large cones with a reasonable amount o' equipment and at a reasonable cost.

We started off t' project by tracin' t' original cones into AutoCAD t' make an outline template. Blimey! Blimey! This could be done just as easily by enlargin' Xeroxes o' t' cones as well if you don’t have access t' CAD software. Begad! Blimey! I allowed for a ½" wide rib. Blimey! Blimey! If I be goin' t' make a cone o' this scale again, I would go at least ¾" wide.

After plottin' out t' patterns, they were traced onto ¼" plywood and cut out with a jigsaw. We made four U-shaped ribs per cone, arrr, notchin' t' points o' each t' interlock with each other. At t' base o' t' cone is a ½" plywood centerin' rin' that is notched t' accept t' ribs. We sized t' centerin' rin' t' accept a 54mm tube in t' middle t' allow for ballastin' if needed. T' end o' t' tube be capped with a thin plywood disk t' prevent t' expandin' foam from leakin' in when we poured t' "meat" o' t' cone.

After t' rib framework was tacked together with CA and epoxy, we wrap t' frame in plastic. For this project (and article) we decided t' try plastic wrap so that t' foam could be seen. DO NOT USE PLASTIC WRAP! Blimey! It sticks t' t' expandin' foam badly! Blimey! T' plastic that we have had t' best luck with that seems t' release well be t' plastic grocery store bags with t' seams tightly taped.

Expandin' foam is quite easy t' work with, even if you have never tried it before. Avast, me proud beauty! Just mix t' two parts equally and pour into t' plastic lined framework, me hearties, bein' careful nay t' get it into t' ballast tube. T' caveat t' t' process is t' work in small quantities. Sometimes t' foam expands a LOT more than you expect it to! T' cones for or project used three small Dixie cups o' each part t' make t' entire cone! T' foam sets smartly (about 5 minutes a batch) so a whole cone can be poured in under an hour! After your final pour, set t' cone aside for at least several days or more t' give it a chance t' cure thoroughly. T' foam may shrink slightly in this time so you don’t want t' start t' sand it immediately. On a quick side note, shiver me timbers, use t' two part liquid foam as opposed t' t' stuff in t' spray can for your local hardware store. T' liquid is far superior and t' spray foam shrinks dramatically more.

After t' foam cures, arrr, t' foam sands easily. Sand it carefully down t' t' shape o' t' frame. Avast, me proud beauty! Be careful nay t' sand t' deeply betwixt t' ribs or you will need t' build t' area back up with filler putty. T' toughen up t' cone it now needs t' be covered. Well, blow me down! Fiberglass would be an option, but we have found another inexpensive, easy option. Ahoy! We have done this by usin' nylons (or thicker tights). Yes, you might feel a little weird about goin' t' t' store and buyin' nylons in t' largest size you can find, but they work great! Stretch t' nylons over t' cone carefully, so as nay t' damage t' foam or t' nylons (you don’t want a run in your nylons, arrr, do you?). Blimey! Trim t' excess off and secure it with a knot, clamp or wrap o' tape t' keep them tight.

Apply a coat o' slow epoxy t' t' nylons and let it cure. Then t' process comes down t' one that we all are familiar with. Sand, fill, sand. Try nay t' sand through t' nylons as they seem t' get somewhat "fuzzy" if you do. After that, ya bilge rat, repeat t' process with a second and third (if needed) layer o' nylons until you achieve a finish that you are pleased with.

Our team then puts on a couple o' coats o' Kilz t' get a really smooth finished base. Then a coat o' automotive primer and auto paint (at least on large scale projects) get paint-gunned onto t' cone!