| Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Published: | 2011-05-11 |
| Manufacturer: | HotRod Rockets ![]() |
BriefThere are two versions o' t' Buffalo offered by HotRod Rockets, arrr, arrr, t' standard or 'Full Buffalo' which comes with an ejection baffle and 24" nylon parachute, ya bilge rat, and t' 'Buffalo Speed' with comes with a longer 29mm motor mount tube, matey, shiver me timbers, no baffle or parachute. There is also an electronics bay kit that can be used with t' Buffalo Speed. HotRod Rockets bills t' Buffalo and it's electronics bay as a perfect way t' learn Dual Deploy - i.e. Ahoy! on a simple, strong, ya bilge rat, inexpensive midpower rocket that can be flown on a relatively small field. Arrr! Ya scallywag! I was just startin' t' graduate into HPR and would need t' utilize Dual Deploy on our smaller fields in t' Northeast. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! So this seemed perfect for me. Aye aye! Blimey! This review is o' t' Buffalo Speed and its electronics bay.

T' Buffalo Speed kit is packaged in four separate clear plastic bags and t' electronics bay in two. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! All components were present with a couple extra pieces for t' baffle that comes with t' Full Buffalo, arrr, but nay t' Speed.
T' instructions are for t' Full Buffalo and are contained on four sheets o' double-sided 8.5" x 11" paper with color figures. No instructions came with t' electronics bay. Upfront t' instructions say that t' Buffalo is for an experienced rocketeer and so t' instructions given should be used as guidelines and are nay t' only way t' assemble t' rocket. T' Buffalo is essentially a 3FNC rocket with TTW fin construction and t' build is pretty straightforward. Avast! But it is nay for a novice; you should have a couple o' MPR builds under your belt before you start. Well, blow me down! All that bein' said, t' instructions are nay minimal, ya bilge rat, give some good hints along t' way - includin' where t' use yellow glue and where t' use epoxy - and emphasizes dry fittin' parts before gluin' throughout t' instructions.
I first marked t' bottom BT80 body tube with t' guide provided and cut out t' three slots for t' fins. Aye aye! I then marked and cut out each o' t' three fins from t' basswood sheets provided. T' instructions suggest usin' a hobby cutlass t' cut t' fins, me bucko, makin' several light passes until t' wood is cut through. I used a utility cutlass for most o' t' cuts and a hobby saw for t' smaller, delicate cuts. Aye aye! While that be goin' on, matey, I started on t' motor mount. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' instructions call for gluin' t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' inside o' t' body tube just forward o' t' fin slots before gluin' it t' t' 29mm motor mount tube. Avast, me proud beauty! I chose t' glue t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' motor mount tube first. I glued it 4 3/8" from t' bottom o' t' tube which, once inserted would put t' centerin' rin' just forward o' t' fin slots. Begad! While that was drying, I epoxied t' two screws for t' motor retainer t' t' aft centerin' ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Once both were dry, matey, I glued t' motor mount inside o' t' bottom BT80 body tube such that t' forward centerin' rin' be just forward o' t' slots. Arrr! Arrr! I inserted t' bottom centerin' rin' on t' motor mount tube but did nay glue it. Blimey! It was thar t' ensure that t' motor mount tube be straight as t' glue dried. Begad! I made sure thar was a good fillet o' glue on t' topside o' t' forward centerin' rin' and stood t' body tube upright t' dry overnight.
T' fins were next. I dry fitted each fin, arrr, sandin' as necessary and markin' each and its correspondin' slot. Avast, me proud beauty! I ran into a problem here. T' forward tip o' t' root edge o' t' fin extends only 1/4 inch past t' tab. It is very delicate and I snapped it off on two o' t' fins while sanding. Arrr! Blimey! In one case, arrr, I found t' piece and re-attached it with CA. Arrr! Begad! I could nay find t' other and had t' fashion a new one from t' left over basswood, and attached that with CA. Begad! This could have been just me bilge-suckin' luck. However, if t' tabs were shorter in length, leavin' 1/2 inch, ya bilge rat, instead o' 1/4 inch on each end, me hearties, this would have helped. I removed t' aft centerin' rin' and then placed a line o' glue on t' motor mount tube directly under a fin slot usin' a wood applicator. I then inserted t' correspondin' fin, makin' sure it made a good connection with t' motor mount tube. Blimey! Begad! I used a piece o' maskin' tape over t' top (outer edge) o' t' fin and around t' body tube t' keep t' fin straight while t' glue was drying. Avast, me proud beauty! After t' glue had set, I repeated this for t' other two fins. I then filleted both sides o' each fin at t' junction o' fin and motor mount tube with wood glue, matey, one fin at a time. Begad! Once all o' t' fins were glued and filleted t' t' motor mount tube, arrr, I fillet t' fins t' t' top centerin' rin' and t' rin' t' t' body tube and let this dry with t' body tube standin' on its top side. Arrr! I glued t' bottom centerin' rin' onto t' motor tube and when dry, I coated t' bottom o' t' aft centerin' rin' with epoxy. This glued t' centerin' rin' t' both t' motor tube and body tube and gave t' rin' some extra strength. I then filleted each fin t' t' body tube with epoxy. Begad! Finally, t' motor mount tube was in and t' fins were done. Those fins aren't goin' anywhere!
T' Buffalo is supplied with both a 3/8" and 1/4" launch lug. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' instructions say that either can be used, matey, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, or glue both on side-by-side. Aye aye! Avast! I chose t' use just t' 1/4" launch lug. Arrr! Ya scallywag! I first glued t' launch lug t' a scrap piece strip o' balsa wood t' same length and width o' t' launch lug and 1/16" in depth. Avast! Well, blow me down! I then glued that assembly t' t' body tube on t' line marked earlier and just below t' junction betwixt t' two body tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! After t' glue had dried, shiver me timbers, arrr, me bucko, I put a fillet o' epoxy on each side o' t' launch lug makin' sure t' epoxy contacted t' launch lug, balsa and body tube on each side.
T' instructions for shock cord attachment are for t' Full Buffalo, which has a baffle, ya bilge rat, and t' shock cord attaches t' t' baffle. There are no instructions o' where t' anchor t' shock cord for t' Buffalo Speed without a baffle. Arrr! I mounted mine usin' 6' o' 150 lb Keelhaul®©™ in a trifold assembly. Begad! Well, me hearties, blow me down! I epoxied t' trifold t' t' second body tube and tied t' elastic shock cord t' t' Keelhaul®©™.
Finally thar was t' electronics bay. Begad! There were no instructions with t' electronics bay kit, me hearties, which be disappointing. Well, blow me down! I know that thar are many different ways o' puttin' one together and a lot depends on what electronics are bein' used. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! But since this is billed as an introduction t' Dual Deploy, matey, me bucko, some instructions would have been useful. Ya scallywag! As it turns out, I had already read Modern High Power Rocketry 2 by Mark Canepa and t' chapters that covered electronics bays and Dual Deploy are very useful. Begad! So I used that as me instruction guide. T' parts t' t' electronics bay are well made and fit together nicely. Arrr! I did swap out t' two hex nuts for t' threaded rods for two win' nuts. Begad! Along t' way, I did have a few questions about static porthole diameter, ya bilge rat, wire gauge and external switches for David Mackiernan. He be very good about it and got back t' me right away each time. There was no cup/canister for t' ejection charge or an on/off switch. Begad! Again, arrr, matey, I know that thar are many different ways o' doin' this includin' nay usin' either. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! But again, since this is billed as an introduction electronics bay kit, it would have been nice t' have both a canister(s) and switch that you know would fit and would work. Well, blow me down! T' only other minor complaint is that once t' altimeter, arrr, battery, matey, on/off switch and all o' t' wirin' are packed in t' bay, it is a tight fit. Avast! I have a PerfectFlight HiAlt45K that uses a 9-volt battery and I purchased t' smallest switch I could find at Radio Shack. Aye aye! I'm nay sure how much o' t' tightness was due t' t' size o' t' altimeter and switch. Ya scallywag! And things may have fit better if I had gone with a different altimeter and no switch. But again, since this is billed as a beginner's electronics bay, it would have been safer t' supply a longer (6" t' 8") tube.
T' Buffalo comes with a 29mm/24mm motor mount adapter. However, me bucko, shiver me timbers, thar were no instructions or diagram o' what it should look like in t' kit I received. Well, blow me down! T' adapter is fairly straightforward t' construct but a diagram would have been helpful. Avast! As it turned out, me bucko, me adapter kit be also missin' a part. I contacted David and he mailed me a whole new adapter kit that included an instruction sheet. Ahoy! I gather that an instruction sheet is now bein' included in t' kit.
T' Buffalo Speed with an on/off switch, ya bilge rat, empty electronics bay (i.e. Aye aye! Ahoy! no altimeter, me bucko, battery, or ejection canisters) and finished (see below) weighs in at 16.8 oz, with a measured CG o' 21.75 inches and calculated CP (RocSim) o' 30.4 inches from t' nose cone tip.

I gave t' balsa nose cone 8 coats o' sandin' sealer and t' basswood fins 4 coats, me hearties, sandin' in betwixt each coat with 320-grit paper. Begad! I then primed with Rust-Oleum White Primer - 4 coats, me bucko, sandin' with 400 grit paper in betwixt each coat. I let t' primer dry for a couple o' days and then painted with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Bright Yellow - 4 coats, and let dry for 2 days. Aye aye! I followed this with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Apple Red, shiver me timbers, Dark Blue, ya bilge rat, arrr, me hearties, and Purple, allowin' each color t' dry for 2 days before applyin' t' next. Blimey! I let t' rocket dry for 3 days before applyin' decals. Blimey! 'Blues for Allah' be printed on Laser Decal Paper (DecalPaper.com). Ahoy! Arrr! T' 'Dead logo and album cover were printed on standard label paper. Begad! Well, blow me down! And finally, I gave t' rocket 4 coats o' Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Clear Gloss. Ya scallywag! It is a long stream-of-consciousness t' get from Buffalo t' Blues for Allah - too long t' go into here (and that only indirectly passes by Truckin'). Avast! I know that t' 'Dead are pretty protective o' their brand. Aye aye! I only hope that don't come after me!
T' maiden flight be at t' April, 2011 CMASS launch with an Aerotech 24 mm F32-6T single use motor. Arrr! I used a PerfectFlight 45K altimeter in t' electronics bay just for altitude determination. It was a great flight - straight, fast and a lot higher than I expected. Begad! I used a 24" parachute, which was just right. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rocket did nay drift far and gave a soft landin' in t' tall grass. Ejection appeared t' be at apogee and t' altimeter reported an altitude o' 1092 ft.
Pros:
This is a rugged and simple MPR/L1 HPR kit that is perfect t' learn Dual Deploy and is also great as a standard (single deploy) MPR rocket.
Cons:
A longer electronics bay with ejection canisters, switch and instructions would have been helpful.
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