Descon Poker

Scratch - Poker {Scratch}

Contributed by Peter Clay

Manufacturer: Scratch
(Contributed - by Peter W. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Clay)

Poker

plan of Poker rocket for Quest Micro MaxxT' "Poker" rocket ...is a simple 3FNC model whose claim t' distinction is that every single part is made from scratch, with t' sole exception o' t' shock cord, which is 6" of Apogee's or ASP's small Keelhaul®©™® cord. Arrr!

T' body tube is made from gummed label stock (lick and stick, not peel and stick). I used Tromark, which is similar t' ordinary bond paper, but is hard t' find unprinted. A good source is kids' activity books, shiver me timbers, me hearties, which often have a central page o' stickers. You will be able t' get a half-inch of usable material from each edge o' such a page. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Gummed labels are available in office supply stores but rarely in t' 11" length needed for t' spiral wrap. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! An alternate material is gummed packagin' tape, matey, shiver me timbers, which is thicker and stronger but also heavier. Aye aye! Second alternate is ordinary paper coated with white or yellow glue as it is used. Well, blow me down!

Makin' t' Body Tube
Here's how it's done:  On a 1/4" o.d. Avast! Blimey! metal rod or tube, wrap about two layers o' ordinary kitchen waxed paper and secure t' ends with maskin' tape. Ahoy! Blimey!  Then wrap a 1/2" wide strip o' paper in a spiral, keepin' t' edges tightly together but nay overlapping. Begad! Blimey!  If you are using the gummed label stock, at this point t' gummed face will be out.
spiral wrapping of bond paper over waxed paper layer
Secure both ends o' t' spiral with a bit more maskin' tape. Aye aye! Now cut a second piece o' stock, shiver me timbers, me bucko, 1-1/2" by about 5", coat with glue (or moisten if it is gummed stock); stick it t' t' back o' t' spiral wrap as shown below. Wrap t' narrow bottom side up and around first, me bucko, ya bilge rat, then with thumbs and forefingers, shiver me timbers, arrr, wrap t' wide side down and around. Begad! Blimey!  Of course, t' glued or gummed side should be on t' inside of this layer.
Outer parallel wrap of bond or gum label paper

Poker's body tube is 4-3/8" long (well, t' first one is a bit longer and has a long, ya bilge rat, rounded nose cone shape). Aye aye!  I cut it t' length by supportin' it inside with a piece o' t' 1/4" dowel and rollin' it under an X-acto #26 whittler's blade. Begad!

Fwit II, Poker I and parts for Poker III(Note: This is almost exactly how I make launch lugs, except that t' mandrel is .055" music wire, t' waxed paper is omitted, t' spiral wrap is 1/8" wide, me hearties, arrr, and the parallel wrap is 3/8" wide. Arrr! Ya scallywag! For t' tower we don't need no stinking launch lug.)

Usually I glue 1/2" o' t' shock cord t' t' outside o' the body on these little things. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This time I didn't want t' outside disturbance, so instead I made a coupler tube by wrappin' glue-soaked paper around a 1/8" launch rod t' t' needed diameter. Ahoy! I cut it t' 3/8" long and cut a shallow groove up t' outside, where I glued t' end o' t' shock cord. Ahoy! Begad! This was then glued into t' body 2.5" from t' forward end. Arrr! Aye aye!  The engine-block position, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, arrr, shown in t' drawin' above, works too but requires two more inches o' Keelhaul®©™®.

nose cone sketchT' nose cone starts out as a 2" piece of 1/4" maple dowel. Well, blow me down! Test fit first and cover with a layer o' paper if needed to get a good smooth fit; dowels vary quite a bit in size. Ya scallywag! Then wrap about 3 layers o' glue-coated paper t' make a shoulder. Arrr! Chuck this in a power drill and turn it against a sheet o' coarse sandpaper t' shape; then remove from the drill and cut off t' shoulder t' about 5/16" long. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' overall length of the nose cone should be a bit less than 1". Drill a 1/16" hole at least 3/8" into t' base o' t' nose cone, shiver me timbers, arrr, shiver me timbers, fill with fresh mixed epoxy and stuff t' loose end o' t' shock cord in. Begad!

Colorbar from WP business card print jobFins can be 1/32" balsa or basswood, or index card stock, hardened after installation by soakin' all edges with thin CA. My first two Pokers used some paper-thin hardwood I salvaged from a cabinet-shop dumpster. Begad!  Poker III has fins made o' folded glossy card stock from the color-check bands along one edge o' a business-card print job (right). Begad! Begad!  

Paint: Poker got a couple o' coats o' sandable white primer followed by fluorescent red, me bucko, me hearties, ya bilge rat, which reminded me o' a red-hot fireplace poker and gave t' rocket its name. T' final detail is a streamer, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, 1/2" x 4", made in this case o' crepe paper, taped t' t' Keelhaul®©™® cord about an inch below the nose cone. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

Flight Prep: I cut some maskin' tape t' 1/8" wide and wrapped it around t' nozzle end o' t' motor; then inserted t' motor; and wrapped t' aft end o' t' rocket with a strip o' Trim Monokote 1/4" wide by 1-1/2" long. Blimey! Aye aye!  Be sure t' test fit t' prepared rocket by dropping it through t' tower.  It should slide smoothly t' entire length. If not, adjust one or both outside rails and try again.

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