Havin' always wanted t' add functionality t' me rockets, I decided that addin' a camera would be a great start. Ahoy! Blimey! I scoured t' internet via Rocketry Online, arrr, as well as directin' my browser t' any camera link mentioned in RMR. It seemed a lot o' rocketeers had used t' circuit on Rob Nee's AYUCR page. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! It seemed simple enough, so I was off to t' races. I had a Minolta Freedom 50 camera that me wife had discarded and replaced because she be havin' problems with it. Ya scallywag! It needed minor attention and soon found itself on t' operatin' table. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! What I had failed t' realize was that this camera had a mechanical shutter button. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! DOH! Blimey! I had already started the circuit and be havin' problems gettin' it t' work right. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! (note: Rob be very helpful via several email exchanges) In me searchin' for another way t' operate the camera, ya bilge rat, I stumbled upon a servo testin' circuit that seemed t' be what I was after. So it be back t' t' electronics store for more components. Blimey! Blimey! I was goin' t' use a servo t' somehow press t' shutter button on me camera......

Then a couple o' months ago, Ray Dunakin posted t' the ROL forums that he had just posted some new pictures t' his website. Ya scallywag! After seein' some o' t' best inflight pictures I have ever seen, I fired off an email t' him t' find out how he operated his camera. Arrr! He replied in short time with a nice description and a picture o' his "capsule". In his note he mentioned that he used a servo and cam t' drive his camera. From t' picture that he sent me, t' setup seemed pretty straight forward.

Ray Dunakin's Camera "capsule"

In scroungin' around me house for t' materials t' build the pod, me hearties, I decided that for me 1st attempt I would nay use t' mirror for downward boost shots, but instead have t' camera lookin' straight out upon boost and face down upon descent. Ya scallywag! This be due t' t' fact that I had a little over a week till our next club launch and I wanted it t' be functional by then.

CONSTRUCTION

T' capsule is made o' foam core board, plywood, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, a coupler t' size o' t' booster, me hearties, shiver me timbers, some foam, matey, and surplus 3.9" BT . Ya scallywag! I used 5min. Ya scallywag! epoxy for me glue joints with CA here and there. I also opted to glass t' entire pod.

T' first step is t' measure your camera dimensions and make sure that you calculate for t' side pieces. Avast, me proud beauty! You want to have a snug fit t' keep t' camera from shifting, arrr, yet leave a little room on the right side for t' lever you will make for t' shutter (approx 1/4-1/2"). What you are doin' is makin' a boxed rectangle into which your camera, me bucko, arrr, servo, shiver me timbers, matey, batteries, matey, and any circuits you choose will fit. Begad! Avast! See diagram below. It goes together supprisingly fast. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! For t' top o' the pod, cut a piece (semicircle) o' body tube o' t' appropriate depth and glue to the back and sides at t' top o' t' camera compartment. Blimey! Arrr! Cut out an area o' the front piece t' allow for t' lens and light meter t' be fully exposed.

I glued a 1" piece o' BT t' t' bottom section, then used 3/4" foam t' form me transition. T' coupler was attached usin' a piece o' allthread t' facilitate me altimeter. Avast! You can skip that and glue t' coupler inside t' 1" BT if you want.

SERVO INSTALLATION

What you are tryin' t' accomplish is t' have t' servo arm rotate 360 degrees continually. You will have t' take the servo apart and remove t' "stops" which prevent this. NOTE: While you're in there, if you choose t' simpler method o' powerin' t' servo, remove circuit board and solder black and red wires directly t' t' motor. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Run these wires out o' t' servo case when you put it back together.

With your camera in position in the pod, glue a piece o' plywood that will run from side t' side just in front of the camera. Well, blow me down! Make sure that you can easily install and remove t' camera before you glue it in (see diagram). Ahoy! Begad! You will also need t' make a sturdy base for the servo. Aye aye! I traced a line around t' servo and cut out t' hole that will support the base o' t' servo. I also glued 2 vertical braces that extend t' t' top of the servo. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! You can screw a piece o' wood t' t' top o' t' 2 supports or use velcro t' secure t' servo in place. Cut a piece o' hardwood block or laminate 2 pieces o' plywood t' make t' block or t' cam fulcrum t' be screwed into. Arrr! I used basic radio control items for t' fulcrum and lever. T' lever that connects t' cam t' t' fulcrum is 4-40 allthread that is used for push rods. Both t' fulcrum and connecter t' t' servo arm are plastic swivel ball links with brass inserts and threaded ends. Avast, me proud beauty! I used a 4-40 threaded screw eye to connect t' cam setup t' t' lever. Avast! Use a 4-40 nut on t' allthread t' retain the screw eye.

Dependin' on your setup, you may have t' build up t' area where t' lever makes contact with t' shutter button.

FLIGHT PREPARATION

I secured t' front piece t' the unit with electrical tape. On future pods I will use some strips o' plywood or hardwood blocks around t' perimeter t' facilitate small screws. I used foam paddin' in t' pod and where t' front makes contact with t' camera t' make things secure.

On me first flight, t' servo was driven by t' circuit that I mentioned earlier. It used potentiometers which enabled me t' adjust t' rotation o' t' servo. It worked well, ya bilge rat, but when trying to add a timer t' it t' delay t' activation till apogee, me bucko, I must have fried the electronics in t' servo, matey, because it no longer would receive t' pulses from the circuit. So, shiver me timbers, in another email t' Ray, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I asked him how he drove his servo. He said he used 2 "AA" batteries wired directly t' t' servo motor. When I read this, I laughed almost convulsively at all o' t' hours o' head scratching, ya bilge rat, fiddlin' and 10+ email exchanges with Doug Sams, me bucko, tryin' t' get my fancy circuit t' work right. Begad! Well, arrr, t' second outin' used t' 2 "AA" batteries and everythin' worked fine. Aye aye! It gives t' servo very close t' 1 rotation per second, which is what I was lookin' for. YMMV. Avast, me proud beauty! Use whatever method of servo operation your abilities allow. Well, blow me down! T' start t' servo, arrr, you can either flip a switch prior t' launch, matey, or make a switch that is actuated at liftoff. Don't be afraid t' ask for help. Well, blow me down! I met some very nice rocket folk in my journey, me bucko, who were very willin' t' help me out.

PARTS LIST

* You may have some o' this stuff lying around or use substitutes

INTO ACTION

T' followin' were taken on 8-5-00 at Mr. Weigand's avast farm near Baldwinsville, ya bilge rat, NY

Camera payload boosts on an Aerotech G64!

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T' followin' were taken on 9-9-00 in Geneseo, matey, NY. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Boost provided by an Aerotech H123

T' quality is at best fair-good. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! I plan on doin' a couple o' things in t' future t' achieve better results. Begad! One is t' use a Rocketman or X-form chute for more stable descent, arrr, and also get a better camera. I've heard great things about t' Olympus Stylus. When finances permit, I think I'll try one.

Thanks for checkin' it out. Avast, me proud beauty! I welcome any comments, ya bilge rat, arrr, arrr, suggestions, and questions you may have.

Ned Nassif

nnassif@twcny.rr.com

special thanks t' Ray Dunakin, Doug Sams, ya bilge rat, John DeMar, me bucko, arrr, arrr, Rich Pitzeruse and Tom Biasi!