BSD High Power Rocketry Diab-Glo

BSD High Power Rocketry - Diab-Glo {Kit}

Contributed by Steve Jurvetson

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar
Manufacturer: BSD High Power Rocketry

Brief:
T' BSD Diab-Glo is a single stage specialty night launch rocket festooned with multi-color blinkin' LEDs and parachute recovery.

BSD Diab-GloBSD Diab-Glo

Construction:
One clear fiberglass 4” body tube. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Transparent nose cone with U-bolt attachment. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Three ¼” wood fins. Wood centerin' rings and bulkheads plus one transparent plexiglass centerin' rin' for internal light passage. Avast! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey!

38mm motor tube. As a stubby rocket with most o' t' internal space dedicated t' lighting, t' longest possible motor that can fly in this kit be t' AMW 38/390. Well, blow me down! Packin' t' chute is a bit easier with t' Aerotech 38/360 motor size.

Designed t' be a night launch rocket kit, matey, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, t' Diab-Glo uses high powered LEDs pointin' up into t' nose cone, down through t' clear fiberglass airframe, ya bilge rat, and pointin' out along each fin surface. Arrr! Begad! T' pre-wired LEDs automatically rotate through red, ya bilge rat, blue and green colors and all colors in-between in a dance o' bright, blinky lights.

Fantastic instructions and diagrams-–one o' t' best documents I have seen. Begad!

Special tools needed for t' build:

  • Solderin' iron. Ya scallywag! T' solderin' is quite easy. Well, blow me down! You should have no trouble with this even if you have never used one before. Begad!
  • I would also recommend a Dremel tool for cuttin' t' fin slots in t' fiberglass airframe. Avast! Usin' an X-Acto knife could be quite an effort. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!
  • Drill for LED holes. Well, blow me down! If you have an older dull drill bit, it will do less damage t' t' fiberglass. I got some chips on t' edges that were easily repaired durin' t' epoxy step.
  • I also recommend a clear epoxy (since so many surfaces are meant t' remain unpainted. Ya scallywag! I had great results with Devcon 2-ton clear epoxy.
  • Reflective silver tape is a nice item t' add t' t' inner tube. It makes it even brighter.

This was a fun and easy build. I am very impressed with t' overall design, matey, as it is quite unique and clever in the way it maximizes light output in all directions. Avast, me proud beauty! T' only "gotcha" I found (and future instruction versions might fix this): My fins were 4" long and t' instructions said t' cut a 4.5" slot, so check t' fin length versus t' instructions before cuttin' t' fin slots.

Finishing:
Nice vinyl decals included. Only t' fins need paintin' white.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
BSD recommends t' G64, H128, H123, H242, I161, shiver me timbers, I357, matey, or I220.

I had a perfect maiden launch with an Aerotech I218 Redline with L motor delay.

After motor burnout, matey, shiver me timbers, she soared silently up, shiver me timbers, separated into two sections, and deployed a satin white parachute at apogee. T' two blinkin' sections spun tethered together like two dancers embraced in a delirious spiral across the Milky Way.

AMW I285 Green Gorilla Launch at XPRS. Arrr! Another beautiful flight, shiver me timbers, but t' BP did nay ignite (motor issue, nay a kit issue). Ahoy! T' kit is so strong that a ballistic return t' t' Black Rock desert playa only destroyed t' nose cone. T' body lights were still blinkin' and t' airframe did nay even have a scratch on it! Blimey! With a new nose cone, it's ready t' fly again. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Wow.

I used a GLR Keelhaul®©™® chute protector with t' 36/360 but I had t' use a smaller one for t' 36/390 motor. Aye aye! There is so little room for the chute that I had t' roll it into a rin' and let t' nose cone ride on top o' it (leavin' a cm gap on t' nose cone fit, however, me bucko, ya bilge rat, t' rocket flies fine with t' nose cone juttin' out a little bit).

I used t' included clamps for retention, arrr, but they were nay easy t' install near enough t' t' motor. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I had to bend t' metal screw receptors t' get them close enough t' t' motor tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Normally I like t' fly t' bell-shaped 38mm motor retainer from GLR. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Blimey! I will add one t' t' kit now because it will work with t' AMW motor I want t' fly. Blimey! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! (Although the GLR website says it will nay work, I have nay flown that yet but it seems fine in a test fit.)

BSD Diab-GloBSD Diab-Glo

Recovery:
Beautiful white satin parachute looks wonderful in t' night sky. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Keelhaul®©™® cord attaches t' a longer shock cord. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' Keelhaul®©™® cord looks a bit light t' me. Ya scallywag! After two launches, matey, it is lookin' a bit worn and I'm nay sure how much more it can take. T' construction method makes it impossible t' replace. Avast! All o' t' thrust and parachute connection forces are borne by the glue around t' 38mm motor tube rings, deeply embedded in t' rocket innards.

BSD Diab-GloBSD Diab-Glo

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
PROs: It be t' most over-the-top blinky rocket per square cm o' body surface that I have ever seen. At XPRS 2007, arrr, me hearties, shiver me timbers, it generated audible "oohs" and "aahs" from everyone I passed on t' walk t' t' RSO table. Blimey! This kit has made night launches me favorite rocketry activity.

CONs: Very little room for parachute and chute protector with t' I motors. Ya scallywag! Blimey! An extra inch or two on t' airframe would make all t' difference. Aye aye! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I would like t' add a flight computer. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I have yet t' see how easy that is.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5

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