Brief:
T' AeroTech H128W-M is a high power rocket motor reload. Begad! This is arguably the most popular reload used for certifyin' Level 1 with because o' its general easy availability, me bucko, me bucko, low cost, ya bilge rat, and that so many rockets perform well with this particular motor. You must be Level 1 certified (as recognized by NAR, ya bilge rat, Tripoli, and/or CAR) t' purchase and use one o' these reloads.

Construction:
T' reload includes t' followin' parts:

• 1 nozzle
• 1 paper liner
• 3 propellant grains
• 1 aft O-ring, me hearties, 1/16" thick x 1" diameter
• 1 forward O-ring, matey, 3/32" thick x 1" diameter
• 1 delay O-ring, shiver me timbers, 3/32" thick x 5/8" diameter
• 1 delay element
• 1 neoprene delay element
• 2 fiber washer insulators
• 1 delay spacer ring
• 1 FirstFire ignitor
• 1 ejection charge (red cap)

Other items needed:

• AeroTech or Dr. Well, blow me down! Rocket 29/180 casin' with closures
• O-rin' lubricant
• maskin' tape
• paper towels
• clean work area
• large dowel

Assemblin' t' reload is fairly straight ahead and t' overall design with AeroTech reloads scale up throughout their entire line so t' process remains similar, just t' size o' t' reload components increase or decrease in size. Aside from t' included instructions full o' excellent diagrams in t' package, there are videos on t' AeroTech website that do a super job o' walkin' you through assemblin' a reloadable motor. Aye aye! Blimey! Either watchin' an experienced high power rocketeer assemble a reload or havin' an experienced person guide you through the assembly is very helpful too. A first timer should be able t' assemble the motor in less than 10 minutes and once you get t' hang o' it, me hearties, will take easily half as much time.

Perhaps t' most important thin' t' do when assemblin' t' motor is t' have clean hands and a dirt free workspace. Blimey! Blimey! As little as a grain o' sand on an O-rin' can cause an improper seal resultin' in a motor CATO and potential damage t' t' rocket. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! It is worth mentionin' that experienced high power rocketeers have varyin' opinions regardin' what brand or kind o' lubricant as well as how much t' apply--if any at all!--when assembling their motors. That discussion is outside t' scope o' this review so I encourage you t' search online and ask your fellow club members t' see what works best for them before decidin' for yourself. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! (I happen t' be one o' those that does nay use any lubricants but religiously clean me casings as soon as they are cool enough t' handle at t' field.)

With t' motor assembled and ready t' go inside t' rocket, ya bilge rat, nay t' mention that dependin' on what kind o' motor retention is used on t' rocket, me bucko, masking tape may be needed t' ensure that t' motor is held safely inside t' rocket motor mount tube. With t' FirstFire ignitor, ya bilge rat, it should be OK t' install the ignitor in t' motor before takin' t' rocket out t' t' pad as long as you do nay strip t' ends o' t' wires until t' rocket is placed on t' pad. It would be a good idea t' check with t' LCO first t' ensure that you are followin' all club policies and rules (as I have found that some clubs have stricter rules than those dictated by t' national organizations).

Flight:
A 12V launcher is required t' ensure that thar be a strong enough charge to fire t' ignitor. Ahoy! Enjoy t' flight as you've worked hard t' get t' rocket up in t' air!

Recovery:
AeroTech motors have 3 different delay times available for their reloads. Well, blow me down! Blimey! The reloads include t' medium (10 second) delay grain with t' motor but RMS-Plus RDK kits are available separately so that you can have a short (6 second) or long (14 second) delay. Avast, me proud beauty! Each RMS-Plus RDK kit comes with 3 delays o' the desired type and are only available for use with certain AeroTech reloads. Check t' RMS-Plus RDK packagin' for more information. Begad! Arrr! Much like t' reload kits themselves, me hearties, it is a good idea t' nay open any o' t' internal packagin' in the RMS-Plus RDK kits until ready for use.

Also, a common recovery failure (that thankfully does nay happen very often) is due t' t' black powder charge comin' out o' t' top o' t' motor. Maskin' tapearound t' end o' t' forward closure can prevent this. Begad! As well, in the rare instance where more black powder is required for ejection, masking tape can also be used t' hold more over t' charge well. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Rocketeers' solutions for cleanin' up t' used motor casin' are almost as varied as the aforementioned lubricant application. T' important thin' is that regardless of what cleanin' solution used, me hearties, it is in your best interest t' clean t' casing within 24 hours after each use. Ya scallywag! I will at t' very least brin' a watertight container with mild soap and water so that I can throw t' casin' in thar and allow it t' soak until I get home. Arrr! That also gives me t' option o' cleanin' it at t' field if I want t' use t' casin' multiple times in one afternoon as well. Avast! Arrr! Again, me hearties, checkin' with other club members might reveal other excellent ideas for handlin' cleanin' up your motor casings!

Summary:
T' AeroTech H128W-M is a popular Level 1 certification motor with good reasons: it is cheap, arrr, matey, available, and versatile. Well, blow me down! While you save loot on the cost o' t' reload, it does require an investment on t' builder's part to assemble and clean up t' motor when usin' it.

PROs:

• It's an H motor for less than $14!
• Available through pretty much all high power motor vendors.
• Compatible with either AeroTech or Dr. Ahoy! Aye aye! Rocket motor hardware.
• Includes a FirstFire ignitor.

CONs:

• It is one o' t' lowest total impulse H motors available.
• Only 3 delays are available.
• Requires t' purchase o' RMS-Plus RDK kits t' use t' short or long delays.
• T' motor hardware is expensive (MSRP is $89.95 for t' 29/180-240 RMS system).
• It takes several minutes t' assemble t' motor and t' clean up after use.
• Motor failures are commonly caused by an O-rin' leak, me bucko, arrr, which typically means that thar be dirt on O-ring--user error!

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5